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A thread about:
http://www.doublegunshop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=210982#Post210982

The stuff sure darkens up the wood. Was likely revolutionary, circa 1950s or so, but, I've moved on to poly for guns I use.

The R10 in this photo is Lin-Speed:

[img]http://www.imageuploads.net/ims/pic.php?u=39559eHIOu&i=191576[/img]


Best,
Ted

Well that brings back some memories. The first gunstock I refinished as a teenager I used Linspeed on. It made a pretty durable finish as I remember.
Jim

I used it on a walnut bench I built over 30 years ago and she still looks good.Does tend to darken the wood but sometimes that is a good thing.

I have been using a 50/50 mixture of Tru-Oil and mineral spirits. I rub it on with a folded paper towel and I sand with 000 steel wool for the first coats and 0000 for the final coats.

As I do not stain my wood, I would like to know which gives the darker richer color:
Tru-Oil
Boiled Linseed Oil
Lin-Speed

Here is Tru-Oil on maple:



Tru-Oil on walnut:



Tru-Oil on a 1956 Model 37:



Lou

Ted - I think that's the nicest looking Darne I've ever seen. The wood came out cool, but what is the finish on the action? It looks blued with painted on smoke wisps! What is it?

Kid,
I'm going to go out on a limb, and guess you really are a kid, or at least younger than 30, or so. Bear with me.
That finish is what is known as cyanide case coloring, a process that came on strong after about WWII. I believe a few American guns had that finish, usually lower end guns like Stevens and Savage shotguns. My Darne was built in 1946, and would have been among the first finished with that method.
It was easier and cheaper than true bone pack case coloring. The "loss leader" of the Darne gun line, post WWII, the R10, was always finished that way.
I'm told that the cyanide process does impart some hardness to steel, but, I've seen plenty of examples with "flaked" finish, and wonder how hard they can be. Post WWII, Darne started using alloy tool steel forgings of higher quality than the pre-WWII Darne guns, so, maybe it doesn't matter what the hardness is. Standard proof Darnes got French TC steel forgings, magnums got XTC, both are molydenum steels, XTC is higher in chrome, and a [censored] to blue, by the way.
I like case colors on a gun, but, will admit I like true, bone pack colors, better.

Best,
Ted

Starrett Tool Co was a big user of Cynanide hardened parts for many of their products. I can assure you it does produce a hard skin & don't recall ever seeing a Starrett that "Peeled". I did not object to this finish on an adjustable paralell for instance, but also much prefer the bone charcoal method on a shotgun. According to Machinery's Handbook a bone process under normal methods also produces a deeper case than does the Cyanide method.

Science has finally found a use for raw linseed oil. It turns out to be a superior oil for seasoning new cast iron cookware. The type used is flaxseed oil found in your local pharmacy or health food store promoted as a diet suppliment.

OB

Ted - Ted - Ted - Ted - Ted You obviously don't know know that Remington ear Parkers and Fox guns starting in the late nineteen teens were were cyanide case colored, don't think there is anything cheap about those guns and I have never seen cyanide colors on a properly prepared piece of steel flake. And yes cyanide case treatment hardens steel just as well as the bone and charcoal method if proper temperatures are used.