doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Posts about Wipe On Polyeurethane finish

I could swear there was a post about using Minewax Wipe On Polyeurethane for stock finishes.
I have been experimenting on some scrap walnut pieces with different techiniques for using it and so far it looks like it may be a winner.
who has any experience with it?
also any experiencing tinting it?

did you use the wipe on for final coats or did you use reg. for a little heaveier working on the surface??

I used it once and stopped because it is to soft. It wore through in about 3 months on my skeet gun. I now make my own wipe on by cutting floor grade poly with about 20% mineral spirits. I has held up for about 7 years on a K-80 that shoots about 12000 shells per year.
bill

There are two kinds of Minwax Wipe-On-Poly, oil based and water based. I have only used the oil based variety and I love it. It is my standard go-to stock finish. It gets as hard as any oil based finish I have ever used and approaches epoxy in durability. It works very well in the sanded-in procedure. It appears to be very solvent resistant after full cure.

OB

I've used it and it works fine. It's kinda like oil, in my experience, in that you need a few coats...or I did. May have been doing something wrong, though.

I've only used the oil WOP on an oak french door. I like the way it works. Seems like it'd be a good stock finish and it's very clear and doesn't darken the wood. For the door, I needed many coats.

One of the best I have used is by General, Armorseal.It is stricly wipe on,a urethane varnish with tung oil

I have also used Min Wax Helmsman Spar Varnish with urethane.

I use it uncut for the first few coats to fill the pores( no wiping).Sanding down with 320 paper.I then cut it with about 20% tung oil and start putting it on with a brush and wiping it dry. It takes some experimenting to get the final coats the way you like them and smooth, and sometimes you need to sand with400, 600 and 1500 wet paper after dry. Then set it aside for a month to harden and then buff out with rottenstone to the luster you want.
With a little practice you can get an oil finish look, but more durable

Two negatives come to mind when I think of poly...softness and poor re-touchability. Clearly, it was superior to penetrating oils for water resistance.

If I were to depart from "hand rubbed oil" finishes, it would be to embrace spray lacquers.

Admitedly, it's been many years since I abandoned it for those reasons. The softness was no doubt a feature of the particular brand I used, but I'd be interested to hear if people have had good re-touching experiences with it in recent formulations.

Mike.Withe the General Armor seal, touch up is very easy and works well. Most all are still some what soft as the uretahne remains pliable. It's a toss up/.The laquer will crack and craze(sp) ,but is hard,the urethanes will not crack ,etc but are softer.