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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 518 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 518 Likes: 4 |
Another thread is dealing with cleaners and preservatives. Along the same line is lubes.
I've tried quite a few over the years and had few loyalties. Then I stumbled on to Lubriplate 105 (NAPA), an extremely light-weight engine-building grease. Love it! I understand oil as a lubricant, but in guns it seems like a variation of the emperor's new clothes. Thick greases get pushed aside and some can show instances of associated galling. Lubriplate 105 always shows evidence of staying where you put it. At the end of the day you can always wipe 105 off of locking bolts, hinge pins, and knuckles.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,033 Likes: 45
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,033 Likes: 45 |
Exactly. Jim Legg recommended an engine assembly lube from the now defunct "Coastal" for hinge pins and locking bolts.
I'm about out of the three tubes I could find, but anything intended for engine assembly should have the desired properties.
"The price of good shotgunnery is constant practice" - Fred Kimble
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,688 Likes: 31 |
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496 |
Personally, I use a 70-30 mix of GI gun grease and Govt. LSA oil. It's cheap, works wonderfully, and isn't "sticky."
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954 Likes: 12 |
Anyplace grease is appropriate, Mobil 28 is the "cat's meow." It has high lubricity, handles high pressure, and has a very wide working temperature range (think military aircraft landing gear, etc.). It is also relatively cheap and easy to obtain (aircraft suppliers).
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 28
Boxlock
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Boxlock
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 28 |
I find that Hoppe's Gun Grease is an excellent lube for hinge pins, forend knuckles, etc. Stays in place and is an excellent rust preventative to boot.
For the sides of the lugs on my doubles, I do use a thin oil as I've found that grease tends to get pushed up the side of the lugs upon opening and closing the action. Typically I apply just a thin coat of Pro Shot Products Zero Friction with a q-tip, but other thin oils such as Beretta Oil, Breakfree CLP, etc. work well too.
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,373 Likes: 6
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,373 Likes: 6 |
How about the so-called dry lubricants that leave a microscopic film (like Eez-ox) - anyone use those exclusively to lube hinge pins, lugs, ejectors, etc?
Such a long, long time to be gone, and a short time to be there.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,879 Likes: 15
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,879 Likes: 15 |
I think you'd be fine with either. Gun parts move relatively slowly in terms of surface feet per minute and the loading is not extreme. Both are old technology lube viscosity enhancers, not necessarily designed to be lubricants themselves. Frankly, I'm surprised either is still available. U.S. car mfrs are pretty adament about not using such additives today. And with 100,000 engine warranties, why would you? It's well established that thin oil prevents wear when the oil is cold better than thick oil and that's when the most wear happens during a usage cycle. That's why GM recommends a 5-30w oil. For a light oil, I think you'll not find much better than one of the synthetic motor oils.
Last edited by Chuck H; 08/23/11 09:31 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496 |
Chuck: I respect your knowledge and experience highly. You are a fount of wisdom. But after working with GM for over 28 years, I've learned that their powertrain engineers are often times ... well, optimistic. Their spec of 5W-30 is more of a "safe bet" than one of engine longevity. At any temp over 32F you're much better off with 20W-50.
I first learned this from a NASCAR crew chief. The proof? My Toyota 4-Runner just turned 350,000 miles on this oil. I even toss in a bottle of STP once in a while.
Sorry for being a bit off-topic.
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