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Joined: Jan 2006
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Glasbedding required - 'Long Cracked' Smith. And the cracks all start at the head of the stock
http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/17090409



Glasbedding superfluous - M21



Glasbedding an insult to the incredible skill of the stocker - C.J.'s Purdey




Last edited by Drew Hause; 03/22/12 11:29 AM.
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Wow the detail on the Purdey is incredible! Talk about workmanship.


"Sometimes too much to drink is not enough" Mark Twain
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Agree 100%. I did say "properly" & I should have added professionally. As I'm sure you know, epoxy can be thinned so that it soaks into & seals the wood w/o requiring any extra wood removal when used on something as nicely done as the Purdey inletting. More of just a sealer when used on a properly inletted stock w/o any issues.

I admit that I don't have the head of the stock sealed on all of my guns but I wish I did & especially the guns I intend to shoot a lot.

Last edited by Brittany Man; 03/22/12 12:25 PM.
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How does one thin the epoxy...sounds like a great idea.

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Thin Acraglass wtih Acraglass thinner & solvent from Brownells. There are some other commercial epoxy thinners available & I have been told that solvents like accetone will work but have not tried this myself. You can get Acraglass as thin as water with the Brownells product.

I've also read somewhere that thinning with solvent degrades the bond & strength of the epoxy somewhat but I don't know that for sure. It doesn't matter anyway if the thinned epoxy is being used on properly done inletting as a moisture & oil barrier but if you are using epoxy to correct issues such as cracks, wood defects or poor inletting you may not want to thin it.

Please don't try this on something nice like the Purdey example until you have done it a few times on something that does not matter & you are still going require a very very thin release agent on the metal even though 99% on the thinned epoxy will soak into the wood you still should assemble the metal to the wood while it cures.

I've done this a lot on rifle stock inletting including under the butt plate or pad & on some of my shotguns. It's a PIA to do on already finished stocks & you need to use some care.

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Is the thinned Acraglass any better than the thin cyanocrylate (Super glue) which I have let soak into inletted wood?

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Originally Posted By: steve white
How does one thin the epoxy...sounds like a great idea.


Ive gone through gallons of epoxy, in my old hobby, building and restoring little boats.

I have thinned epoxy with acetone, lacquer thinner, and alcohol. It only takes a tiny bit (Ive read no more than 5%). Solvent thinning significantly reduce final strength. Avoid skin contact because the solvents make the epoxy easily penetrate skin, which is not at all healthy. I have abandoned this method.

Heating epoxy increases viscosity. Pot life is shortened by a lot. Ive had batches start smoking. I dont think heating Acraglass is advisable because that crap kicks too fiercely as is. I dont like Acraglass at all.

Heating the wood works very well. When the epoxy contacts warm wood, it warms and the viscosity lowers. Better yet, as the temperature of the wood falls, the epoxy is sucked in. This is a common technique to repair rotten end grain on canoe ribs and such. This is how I do stock heads. Ive only done a few. Dont take any of this as gospel. Im a rank amateur.

It should be said that impregnating punky wood with epoxy does not restore strength. It only makes the wood harder. The wood fibers are still damaged.

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2holer

I've never used cyanoacrylate as a sealer for the head of the stock. Just a SWAG but based on my experience using cyanoacrylate for other things I'm thinking yow will get better penetration & less worry about surface build up with the thinned acraglass or other epoxy. On sound wood & good inletting you dont want any build up & when done really shouldn't look any different except maybe a little glossier & any pores mostly filled.

Steven Dodd Hughes touches on this in one of his books (Double Guns & Custom Gunsmithing I think) & if I remember correctly soaks up the inletting cuts & head of the stock with thinned poly finish such as Permalyn. Done correctly, several different methods will work here & IMOP are better than leaving the wood unsealed. Sealing against oil migration will for sure prolong the life of the stock & properly sealing it can't make it any weaker.

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Some of the Smith fellas favor Goat Tuff Glue http://www.goattuffproducts.com/index.php?op=11

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I've used thin cyanoacrylate glue to soak into punky wood that was oil soaked and the oil removed with solvent soaking for over a week. The thin cyanoacrylate really got sucked up in large quantity. I kept putting glue into it until it wouldn't absorb any more. I believe it restored a lot of strength, but there's no way to quantify it.

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