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Joined: Dec 2007
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Very nice set up! Thanks for sharing.

Adam

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curious - how long was the first one in the jig?

and how old is the wood

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Mike,
Have faith! I'm a lefty and had my 686 bent to fit me by Reven's Restorations in Houston, TX some years ago. Everything moved as we wanted, and it has not sprung back. Aesthetics of the gun were not changed at all.
Jeff

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Chuck H Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: OH Osthaus
curious - how long was the first one in the jig?

and how old is the wood


The heat was on for a total of 50 mins. After 10 mins we tried to move it. We added some pressure/displacement and let it set with the heat on for another 5-10 mins. It seemed to take a set of about half the amount we moved it. We added more pressure/displacement. Let is go 10 mins, checked the pressure by backing off the jacksrew, pushed by hand, set the jackscrew, etc. . Basically, all the amount of displacement was done by hand pressure, then held by the jackscrews, wait 10 mins, do it again. Then let the heat stay on after the last displacment for 10-15 mins, checked to see the springback was minimal, shut off the lamps, leave it wrapped in the oil soaked rags for at least 15 mins more, remove the rags, let it air cool to ambient, then remove clamps.

That first Parker is a damascus GH. I didn't ask the year of mfr, but if I were to guess, I'd say 1900-1910. So basically, 100 yr old stock, with another 50-100 yrs of growth as a tree.

Last edited by Chuck H; 05/20/12 11:04 AM.
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Chuck:
Your set-up resembles mine in most every way, though yours is a bit more industrial in scale. I got my plans from Mike Orlen.
I have bent many of my stocks and those of my friends, and so far, no problems, knock on wood. I would not want to work on a gun that has had any repairs in the wrist, however.
I've bent both through-bolt and conventional box locks and side-locks.
I use common mineral oil, which doesn't smell as it heats.
Like you, I mask off the areas of wood with foil that I don't want to heat. This concentrates the heat on the wrist.
I keep my lamps about 10-11 inches away from the wood. I wrap the wrist with a long cotton strip about 2" wide. Every 5-10 minutes, I brush on enough oil to saturate the wrap.
I have an aluminum drip pan underneath the wrist to keep my work area as clean as possible.
Unfortunately I find that the oil will migrate into the action, so I strip each gun after I bend it to remove this excess. I haven't found a way to prevent this and don't know of a material that would block the flow of oil and not be affected by the heat.
This process really works for me, and I like the ability to custom fit my stocks.


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Chuck did bending the stock crack the poly finish on your Reproduction?

Nice job and thanks for taking the time and trouble to photograph the process and post it here.

Best,


Mike

Last edited by AmarilloMike; 05/20/12 12:40 PM.


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Chuck H Offline OP
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Mike,
No, but it did get tacky enough to leave the imprint of the rag on the small areas that aren't checkered in the wrist. I think a little rubbing with some compound will make it disappear.

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Impressive.

I'd like to find someone in Maine both reliable and accurate (and not arm-and-a-leg expensive) to measure me, first, before I get stocks bent. I shoot lefty and my guns are set up for righties. Of course, that does make me concentrate extra hard on getting down on the stock and lined up properly.


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Chuck H Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: muchatrucha
Chuck:
Your set-up resembles mine in most every way, though yours is a bit more industrial in scale. I got my plans from Mike Orlen.
I have bent many of my stocks and those of my friends, and so far, no problems, knock on wood. I would not want to work on a gun that has had any repairs in the wrist, however.
I've bent both through-bolt and conventional box locks and side-locks.
I use common mineral oil, which doesn't smell as it heats.
Like you, I mask off the areas of wood with foil that I don't want to heat. This concentrates the heat on the wrist.
I keep my lamps about 10-11 inches away from the wood. I wrap the wrist with a long cotton strip about 2" wide. Every 5-10 minutes, I brush on enough oil to saturate the wrap.
I have an aluminum drip pan underneath the wrist to keep my work area as clean as possible.
Unfortunately I find that the oil will migrate into the action, so I strip each gun after I bend it to remove this excess. I haven't found a way to prevent this and don't know of a material that would block the flow of oil and not be affected by the heat.
This process really works for me, and I like the ability to custom fit my stocks.


M,
I'm using Phillips red 250w R40 bulbs. I put them 6" from the stock, but it was taking a long time to heat compared to what a friend showed me. So, I moved them to 5" and used that for all the work except the last 10-15 mins, I moved them to 6", where I had pushed the stock to the desired displacement and was holding it there under heat.

I also inserted a thermapen in the triggerguard tang screwhole, which was full of oil. I did this to get an idea of the temp inside. I got around 175F in the hole at the highest.

Last edited by Chuck H; 05/20/12 01:25 PM.
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Jeff, we Canadians cannot ship our guns into the USA for gunsmith/stock work unless we have a Form 6 ATF and then we have to bring them in personally.
We have a British gunsmith in Ontario and he is backed up for over a year. My lefty friend with the new 686 will send his gun there when the season is over. We do have LH 680 series stocks for $900.00 each from the Vancouver Beretta importer.
I was looking for a used 682 12 ga sporter on Ellwood Epps (Ontario) website and I noticed one which looked like it had a left hand palm swell, on a pic of the top lever.I bought the gun, fantastic, a custom LH skeet stock, a beautiful piece of walnut.
Had to remove 1" from the 15" LOP, fits like a glove!
Mike

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