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Joined: Jul 2010
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I've been fascinated with these for quite some time and have decided to give it a go.

I bought some specialized leather (extremely overpriced) from Galazan that purports to be for this purpose. The leather seems quite thick which leaves me wondering if this is truly the "old world" way or if Galazan just has no idea what they are selling?

I've heard/seen people using very thin goatskin and other leathers that are so stretchy it would make the whole process pretty easy but they don't seem to have any holding value. (e.g. my Orvis leather pads lasted 1 year and one UPS shipment respectively)

Has anyone done one of these pads using the black leather from Galazan that is thicker?

Those that have done the leather pads, do you wet the leather and block them to the pad, then let them dry, then remove, glue and reapply?

OR

DO you wet the pad and stretch it over while gluing it wet?

OR

DO you wet/glue and do the head of the pad, then let dry, then wet/glue the sides of the pad, then let dry, then gusset and fold under the ends wet/glue until complete?

Thanks for any tips you might be able to offer. I'll try it on a Galazan "silvers pad" that is 1.5" thick this coming weekend once I have my strategy figured out.

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I tried it once....it's better left to professionals if you want a professional job.

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jOe, I remember that work you did, it was a nice job except you neglected to trim down the underlying pad to account for the thickness of the leather, otherwise it looked good.
Steve


Approach life like you do a yellow light - RUN IT! (Gail T.)
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Rookhawk: There is a pretty good description of how to do it in 'Shotgun Technicana' if you have a copy at your disposal. They recommend pig skin or goat skin. Good luck....looks tough to me.


Socialism is almost the worst.
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get thin pig or goat - remember the pad needs to be thinner than the stock by the thickness of the leather -

take your time, you need to be able to stretch the leather just a bit, but not enough to compress the pad. smooth it out as you go, and cut the notches a litle at a time to allow the bottom to sit smooth on the butt. I did mine from instructions posted on this board a long time ago - 10 years or so.




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It also helps if you take a gouge and cut the end of the stock slightly to make it a dished out surface. Lower in the center than the edge by 1/8". As the leather covered pad seats it will flow into the undercut. If you do not do this you can get a gap under the pad. I do this even on non covered pads. Worse thing in the world is having a stock with wood higher in the center than at the edge. No matter how tight you screw it down it will never seat.

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Make a jig with some wood so you can screw the pad to the wood and put it in the vice so you can pull, strtch and shape with both hands. first time, get it as smoth as you want, tie the excess leather off with sugical tubing and let it dry. As you do more and get on to it you can glue and apply at the same time. By practiseing streching and drying first you don't have to worry about having the wrinckles glue in. Put a splsh of rubbing alcohol in the soak water that can help. Mark II

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I haven't covered a pad, but other leather work suggests to me that making a buck (a form the shape of the pad) would be helpful for the thicker leather that is difficult to stretch and get the wrinkles out of.

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If i ever do another I'm going to use a Trojan Lamb Skin and dye it the color I want.

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Originally Posted By: HomelessjOe
If i ever do another I'm going to use a Trojan Lamb Skin and dye it the color I want.


laugh laugh Good one, but what happens when it rubs on your shoulder too much?


David


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