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whitey #300070 11/11/12 06:24 PM
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If you already have both the front and rear bases and want to fit them to an existing action without piercing the front ring, it seems to me that it would be easy to calculate the height needed at the rear in order to ensure that the front ring remained as whole as possible.

IOW IMO a good smith can make it work without any difficulty at all.
Regards, Joe


You can lead a man to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
J.D.Steele #300071 11/11/12 06:40 PM
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whitey Offline OP
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Joe like you said if you had the bases with matching rings etc
it should not be that big a deal.IMO I know about a year ago he sent me a set for a Mauser sporter I had. That was missing the rings. about a hour later with a little file work on the new bases. It was done. Whitey

Der Ami #300231 11/13/12 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted By: Der Ami
Is there a "sattle"(sp)that solderes to the reciever ring to avoid piercing it?


Mike,

I have two original Mauser Sporters (Model S) with the "Sattel" you are describing, a sort of aftermarket square bridge arrangement. I believe they are soldered onto the receiver ring, obviating the need to D&T. Of course the rear mount has to be raised accordingly, but machining a spacer to fit should not be an insurmountable problem. The resulting arrangement is pretty high and can lift your face off the comb of the stock in aiming, so a detachable cheekpiece may be called for.

Last edited by xausa; 11/13/12 10:05 AM.
whitey #300234 11/13/12 10:27 AM
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Plus it will have the added benefit of maybe not having to alter the original shape of the bolt handle in order to clear the scope.

Gary D. #300243 11/13/12 11:55 AM
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The "sattel"(sp)was mainly to avoid piercing the reciever ring,but it does look much better than a simple dovetail.On scopes with an ocular bell,high mounting is necessary to give room for the scope to tip enough for removal.On more modern mounting,the forward base is mounted in a "sattel"(SP),which is soldered to the barrel ahead of the reciever ring.This allows the front ring to be attached to the ocular bell,which keeps the scope from tipping so much.On older high mountings,if lowered,not only would the bolt handle have to be altered,the tang and stock may have to be altered(notched).This may not be desirable.When new front rings come from the factory,they are already fit to,and come with the plate.They know what radius they used in making the cuts and they are forced together with hydraulics.The fear feet are cut to length and the notches are cut after the required heigth is determined (after fitting the front ring)by bore sighting with an adjustable block under the rear of the scope.This block is used to determine how long to make the foot.The notches are cut so that they stand"proud" of the slot in the rear base,by the width of a "scribe line".The"slide",not the notch, is filed to fit it up.This takes any movement out of the lock up.The rear of the "feet" have to have enough clearence to swing in and out.On soldered bases/sattels, a "skim"cut is made,dovetail finish cut,to make everything square to the bottom of the reciever;before fitting the rings.Hand filed rings/claws can work if carefully done,but usually work better if not removed and replaced after sighting in.They can return to zero for a while,but "play" will likely show up sooner or later.
Mike

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