doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com I found a model 12 and...

A while back I had a post where I was asking about an M12 or M97.
Well a model 12 made in 1928 followed me home the other day. It's been used but not abused. The wood is in pretty good shape and the bluing has that brown patina but not rubbed through or scratched. It's in need of a good cleaning and I'm wondering what the best way to go about it is. So far on the outside all I've done was rub it with an old sock and Ballistol. Inside the receiver is another matter. It's been a loooong time since anyone gave it any attention and the gunk has hardened and doesn't want to clean. I'm thinking I'll probably have to get after it with an old toothbrush and some Gumout or something. What do you suggest? I don't want to do anything dumb. FWIW it's a 28" modified 12 gauge.

Mineral spirits seems to be the most harmless way to clean out hardened (and dirty) lubricants. I found a project 16-gauge Model 12 this summer (from 1919, only 6lbs5ozs!) that also needed a thorough cleaning. Mine was disembled and cleaned, but I've been told by fairly credible sources that just soaking the mechanism (with even diesel fuel!) will work (M12s are practically indestructable). Remove the barrel and forend and just insert the action into the fluid of choice. I'd not soak the stock if you can avoid it (although mineral spirits shouldn't hurt it).

After a few hours (or many), pull the action and hit it with some compressed air while cycling it. When you're satisfied that it's clean enough, hit it with some form of spray lubricant and you're ready to go. Crude but effective (both the gun and the cleaning method). I bought mine out of nostalgia (grew up with old Winchesters) and I liked the weight (16s were built on 20-frames). It won't replace any of my doubles, but it was a fun project and lots of bang for the buck (no pun intended).

With a proper set of Screw Drivers and a Assembly Guide a Model 12 is not hard to strip and clean.

Congratulations- On Your Choice of "The Perfect Repeater" a 1949 sales tag for the great Model 12- Your 1928 Mod 12 field grade will still show Nickel Steel on the barrel stamping near the breech- and all 12 gauge Model 1912 and Model 12 (same exact gun, just less the 1 and 9 in the roll stamp)were factory std at 2& 3/4" (except the 3" Mag heavy Duck which came out in 1935). I "grew up with Winchester" and also in my stint as a Master Armorer (2112 MOS) stripped, cleaned and service and test fired beaucoup Model 12's -also M25 and M1897 12 Winchester pumps- In the field of repeating firearms, regardless of the designer and era- 4 weapons stand out in my 60 plus years of shooting- The Colt 1873 "Peacemaker" .45 Revolver- the Colt 1911 and 1911-A-1 .45 ACP pistol, the US Rifle M-1 30-06 Garand and the Winchester Model 12--None better. You are fortunate to have found a 28" mod- most Model 12's in field grade configuration had Full chokes as std-unless customer ordered otherwise.

Three books/articles you might want-- Dave Petzals' 1985 June SC Magazine article on the "Perfect Repeater" and both the Dave Riffle and the John Madis books on the Model 12- some of the Model 12's photographed in the Riffle book would make a Nun leave a Convent as become a Frat House House Mother at a Party College--Wow--

If you become stymied, call my gunsmith pal Rod Gates -he's a "Show-Me" Stater like yourself, has been a gunsmith for 40 years hand runnin'--and also like me, and Buck Hamlin of Peavely MO- also loves the LC Smith shotguns-- his number is 417-224-0714-- enjoy the M12-and leave it to a Grandson-

Thanks for the replies. I just cut the top off of one of those little mini kegs and have the innards soaking in it in kerosene. I figure I'll do the brake clean and compressed air thing after while. I never had seen an M12 apart before so I googled it the other night and gave it a try. I took it apart and put it together twice. The first time took forever but I learned a lot and it's easy once you know how. Although the magazine stop gave me fits at first. That little wishbone spring was a lot easier than I thought it would be too. The barrel is marked nickel steel and you're right the modified models are harder to find. I specifically looked for one and it took a while. I'll try it out later this afternoon and see how it patterns. Nothing like a shotgun with 85 years of 'break in' time already under it's belt!

Other than a Heavy Duck, all my Model 12s are Nickel Steel guns, because in my opinion they handle the best.

It was almost too dark by the time I got it back together but I kicked three clays out of the trap tonight and busted the first two right off so I think it's gonna work for me. The forearm almost feels like it's too far out but it seems to point pretty well so I won't question it. My only complaint is that the safety is pretty stiff. Any way to lighten it a bit?

Unless you have done this several times, I don't recommend you dis-assemble the cross-bolt safety from the trigger housing group. Instead just soak the entire group in A 50-50 mix of paint thinner and Kroil- brush and scrub out the crud and function the safety from On to Off positions as you do this- then a blast of dry compressed air should do the trick-- also, on your forearm comment, make sure the two point facing arrows (draw lines in WRA lexicon) face each other when you re-assemble the barrel magazine and action tube/rod assembly--

Why do the Nickel Steel guns feel so much better balenced than the Proof Steel guns? The pre-1930 guns all seem to handle just a bit better. Another question: when did the 16-bores go to 2 3/4-inch chambers? Last question: the magazine stop on my little 16 isn't working quite right. How tough is this to remedy?

1. Buttstock dimensions. Generally, prewars have a bit more drop, and are a bit less bulky overall. Prewar field wood is often quite light in weight and non-figured. Very early guns have less well-defined (think POW) pistol grip.

2. Around SN 500k. Some below 500k are 2 3/4".

3. Define "isn't working quite right". You do know the shell stop on M-12s and 42s is a projection on the bottom of the bolt (in conjunction with the shell plate). They position the next round such that the base sits outside the mag tube. In this respect they differ from most other repeaters.

Sam