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Gentlemen:

The described procedure to uncook a double trigger sxs could DAMAGE the ejector mechanism, specifically the notch in the cooking lever that fires the small hammers that strikes the ejector.
I do not recomend to use it in ejector shotguns.

Even a broken firing pin is a lot easier to repair that a delicate ejector system.

Best,


Jose M. Fernandez
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I did note this caveat on ejector guns in my first post on the subject. The only ejector gun I currently own is a Lefever with in frame ejectors. It does them absolutely no harm. On some other ejector guns I have owned in the past I simply never tried it on them.


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Originally Posted By: Ted Schefelbein
It can't be done on my Uggy, which does have an automatic safety and does not have a lever that latches over.
The safety is being pushed on at opening and there is no way to pull the triggers with the safety on.
I prefer the Darne method-close action, pull triggers, put gun away. No snap caps or other kludge needed.

Best,
Ted


This is also an accepted method of de-cocking a Fox. No harm done to a Fox by dry firing it.

I, however, never de-cock any boxlocks I own. Releasing some of the tension on a spring, by de-cocking it, is not something I am concerned with. De-cocking, or dry firing, does not release all spring tension, just some of it.

SRH


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Originally Posted By: Patriot USA

It can be done with an auto safety.

It's been my experience any American made gun with a rib extension;..break open; use any object to push down on the lever release plunger while holding lever over; then let lever come back or you can let it snap back when the plunger is pushed; move safety to fire position; pull triggers with gun open; close gun. Feels like the gun almost has an assisted closer when closing. Lefevers barrels will almost close themselves; so will my 20 ga. Stevens.


If you trip a latched top lever closed with the bbls still open, then try to close and lock the bbls shut, the locking lug(s) are in the way.
I guess you could let the hammers down part way .
Almost the same feel as trying to assemble the gun, putting the bbls onto the frame w/o locking open the top lever.
..unless I'm misunderstanding something here!

Just leave 'em cocked,,it ain't hurting nothing anyway.

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I should have added 'after pulling triggers, move lever back to the locked position and then close barrels.'


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Originally Posted By: Kutter
Originally Posted By: Patriot USA

It can be done with an auto safety.

It's been my experience any American made gun with a rib extension;..break open; use any object to push down on the lever release plunger while holding lever over; then let lever come back or you can let it snap back when the plunger is pushed; move safety to fire position; pull triggers with gun open; close gun. Feels like the gun almost has an assisted closer when closing. Lefevers barrels will almost close themselves; so will my 20 ga. Stevens.


If you trip a latched top lever closed with the bbls still open, then try to close and lock the bbls shut, the locking lug(s) are in the way.
I guess you could let the hammers down part way .
Almost the same feel as trying to assemble the gun, putting the bbls onto the frame w/o locking open the top lever.
..unless I'm misunderstanding something here!

Just leave 'em cocked,,it ain't hurting nothing anyway.


I, too, was trying to figure out just how you close the gun with the lever tripped back to center. I just went up and attempted the same with my Tobin, and can report no-go. You can not pull the triggers with the gun open, regardless of where the latch is. The Tobin is an American made gun with a rib extension, and, in this case, an auto safety. I might add.

Best,
Ted

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Quote:
I, too, was trying to figure out just how you close the gun with the lever tripped back to center

That should be rather obvious to anyone, You Don't. What one would think would be equally obvious is it is a simple matter to move the top lever back to the right. On three guns I own, an early side pivot Lefever, a Birmingham J P Clabrough & a German VL&D/J P Sauer all three of which have automatic safeties but the lever is not latched over but comes back to center when the bbls are open. On these I "CAN" simply pull the triggers, let the bbls drop just enough for the hammers to clear the sears, then release them & continue closing the gun. As the gun closes the hammers come down the lever goes back right & the safety is set. when the gun closes the lever snaps back center engaging the locking bolts. On all my Lefevers with three position safeties I merely have to pull the triggers, then release them as I close the bbls. Hammers go down, safety is set & when the rib extension contacts the trip the bolt goes home & lever comes back to center. On my guns with auto safeties & top levers that latch then as stated it is necessary to trip the lever & allow it to return to center so the safety can be released allowing the triggers to be pulled. This is the case for instance with my little 16ga Baker Black Beauty. I don't normally bother but "I CAN". Its kinda hard to convince someone who has done something a thousand times or so that it Can't be done. You do have to be as smart as the gun though.


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Let me be clear about this. No one was saying you couldn't do it with YOUR OWN guns. I did say I couldn't do it with either of MY boxlocks (both auto safety guns). Patriots first post was vague enough that it left two of us scratching our heads. He corrected it. Thanks for that.
The Uggy safety will have nothing to do with being moved off when the gun is open. The lever does not latch open. The Tobin lever can be snapped as described earlier and moved to center with the gun open, but, the triggers aren't interested in moving after that has happened-on mine, one can see the triggers moving forward when the safety is engaged and dropping back as the safety is disengaged, when the gun is closed. This is the only Tobin I've ever owned with an auto safety, and I don't have any of the others around anymore to look at.
I'm guessing there is a trigger interference with the lockwork, via the cocking cams, when my Tobin is open. The gun is at least 100 years old, and has been restocked, and although all seems well, perhaps something internally is amiss. Both the main springs and the hammers have rollers built into the ends, leading me to believe that someone thought there was too much friction in the design for them to be left out. The point is fairly moot as I do own a nice pair of 16 gauge CSMC nickel plated snap caps for that old girl, and they are at least as smart as the gun...


Best,
Ted

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