doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com aya boxlock ejector conversion

help required please.
i have read in a garwood article about an easy! conversion of an aya ejector to non ejector possibly by means of a screw in the fore end stock and i have recollections of a similar topic on this site.unfortunately i cannot find either at present(i have tried the search facility).could anyone please confirm if this is possible and give a brief laymans description.the info is required by a companion and i offered to help.
thank you
cheers

Why not just take the kicker springs out?

rocketman, thank you for the suggestion.
however,the method i vaguely recall and the one which i am refering, involved simply adjusting a screw which could immediately allow selection between ejector and non, almost in an instant.i may of course be wrong in my understanding and memories.i shall continue to search garwoods books for my (possibly imagined)source.
cheers

Post it if you find it, please.

Garwood's book(s) contain a lot of imagined stuff, IMO.

I recall the post as well. It was pretty detailed and contained pictures. Dont know the poster for sure but Rabbit comes to mind.

J.B. has an amazing memory!

Good thing the old boy's dead because he would be anyway if Jim got hold of him (dang gunscribblers!) Not a matter of Garwood's fertile imagination; it works on the Southgate configuration peculiar to AyAs. See pgs. 48-9, of The Second Gun Book. Old Guff did it a 25 (don't know if this was box or sidelock; I did it to my #2. You can get an intermediate bearing of the setscrew which which lightens the action of the ejector hammers as well as on/off. Placement is not hypercritical but the setscrew should be centered laterally and it's nic to avoid the area of the s/n. Pix follow.









jack

I forgot the "lay" description. Not much to it aside from selecting a small setscrew (I used a 6X32 or 8X32 but an M3 or 4 would be fine). Something in the range of 3/8" long but you can grind to length of course. I used a socket head so I require a hex key to adjust whereas Garwood used a small thumbscrew which could be turned by hand. Need a tap drill and tap for the thread you're using and I think it's best to secure the iron in a drill press vise, cross slide, wooden parallel or whathaveyou such that the hole is plumb to the iron. You also need to understand how to disassemble the pushrod and the escutcheon to free the pushrod tube and the iron from the forend wood. Make sure you convey ALL the necessary info to your friend as I don't want broken forend wood on my conscience. I suppose if you really had the tune in your head and had done a few, you might get away with drilling and tapping without removing the wood but that would likely drop metal fragments or scurf inside the mech and that might not be so good at all. With no kickers, you will still have extraction altho perhaps not quite as high as in an extractor gun. I have had no trouble getting a grip on the hulls to remove.

jack

Would you care to expand on that statement Jim?

Regards
Russell

jb .thanks for the prompt.
rabbit..thank you very much for the answer to my query,slightly more complicated than i remembered but im sure my friend will follow your excellent instructions.
cheers

jim legg.. ive always found garwoods writing to be informative,helpful and enjoyable.each to their own.
cheers