doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion German & Austrian Sporting Guns @ doublegunshop.com Source for Rings for Claw Mounts

Just looked at the set I made and "I WAS WRONG" the flat is on the lower side of the rear ring leg and the bevel on the top. Too many things going on can't remember them all.

It has been a while and I'm in the process of repairing another drilling, lock should be back soon. The other side was almost as bad.

oskar,
Good on you, I like to see these "old warriors"saved and brought back to life, when possible.
Mike

Steve, I don't think thay make them proud on purpose, I think they make them the width of the opening in the plate, but with a little manufacturing tolerance, a little bit usually rolls up.It might even do it if they are the same width.Since the manufacturer makes both, they can make the contour of the top of the hook the same as the inside of the plate(actually, the reverse).The hooks would be a little shorter than the thickness of the plate,otherwise it would hit the dovetail in the base.
Mike

Mike: I was trying to understand from where the metal rolls up. If I formed them too well, where would the resistance be when driving the base onto the hooks?
BTW, Oskar used a laser bore sighter to help align the rings. I assume one that fits in the chamber. He pointed it at a distant object and determined if the rings were well positioned with a scope laid in them, and the centered scope being moved by fitting to zero in on the laser mark. It wasn't a bore sighter that fits in the end of the barrel and looks back at the scope...and he did a neat job that resulted in a good group. (super schussleistung!) Your rear block with elevation screw just makes really good sense, though, and I would have done that had I known. It would have saved me some time.
Oskar, keep us abreast of your drilling repair project! Steve

Oskar, did someone use that stock to knock a dying rabbit in the head? I am amazed and depressed at the fine guns that are broken doing just that! You won't catch me breaking a stock to save a critter from an extra 20 seconds of suffering...would be like dodging a squirrel while driving a massive RV--wrong priorities.

Steve,
You usually find it on the side(s) of one or the other of the hooks, and maybe at the rear surface.This is usually very minor and is only a product of the tight fit of the hooks to the plate.The importance is only that they should be scraped off,so the ring fits flat onto the plate before boresighting with the adjustable block.With regard to the lazer bore sighter, I'm sure it will work.The procedures I described were thought out a long time before lazer bore sighters were invented.I wouldn't be surprised, at all,to walk into a shop and find them using one now.To boresight the traditional way, you have to have a vise located so you can see through a window or open door(Fred sighted on a transformer,down the street from the shop).With a lazer sighter, I guess the vise location wouldn't matter.
Mike

Mike, Just wanted to let you know that I tried your method of bore sighting and it worked well. The screw and steel plate worked very nicely and I used rubber surgical tubing to keep the scope in place. Really very simple although at this point I have only boresighted at 25 yds. I will have to find a location where I can boresight to 100 yds. Seems like I read somewhere that a rifle boresighted at 25 yds should come out about the same at 100 yds but I may be remembering this incorrectly. I also tried using a conventional boresighter and it came out the same as using the above method which surprised me. On a driling the bore is so much lower than the scope that it seems like a conventional boresighter would not work but they both came out about the same? From the measurements it looks like I will have to mill off about .043" from the bottom of the rear scope ring to get the scope where it needs to be. I also may have to take a little bit off the rear of the front feet as moving the scope down enough in the rear to boresight it makes the front ring pretty much bottom out on the base. I hesitate to take any off the bottom of the front ring bases where they contact the dovetail base plate but if I don't I believe the scope will be under slight tension when it is clicked into the rear base.

Any thoughts or advice is welcome.

Thanks,
Ron

Ron, think it out well before altering the front claws! Some of the European makers create claw mounts with purposeful tension (in fact this has been an on-going criticism of claw mounts, as mentioned in Klupp's book, Der Drilling). I have heard that their goal was to see the rear ring rise up 1/4 inch as soon as the locking slide was pulled back. They seem to have wanted to err on the side of levered in tight vs. worrying about any tension introduced to the scope. Swing mounts, when properly adjusted, are thought to be more tension-free. Sounds like you are being precise! Steve

Ron,
I try to boresight around 100yds, but I'm not sure it is all that critical,just find a location as far away as is convienent.As long as the result is within the range of adjustment of the scope, you should be ok.I fit a set of "Contra Einhackmontage"(reverse claw mounts) onto a boltgun when I lived in Germany.They were made to screw onto standard recievers, but my military action didn't fit exactly and I wound up having to scrape the front ring in.My "shop" was in a "maids room"and the one window was too high to see any target to boresight it. I solved the problem by tapeing a piece of paper with two dots the same distance apart as the distance between the centerlines of the scope and barrel.I sighted the barrel on the lower dot and the scope on the upper dot.The distance was about 5 feet. It worked. I'm surprised the conventional boresighter worked, but I'm often surprised.
Mike

Steve, Thanks for your thoughts on the tension on the scope. I think I remember reading that it is preferred that there be a slight bit of upward tension on the scope with claw mounts. I once had a swing mount installed a few years ago before I got brave enough to work on these on my own and I was told that even with a swing mount a very slight upward tension in the scope is preferred. So, I will go very slowly on the front rings and I may not need to take any off at all. I'll have to check when I get home but I an not sure the scope would rise more than a 1/4" if released from the rear slider.
Thanks, Ron