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#3893 10/02/06 07:02 AM
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Why are Browning guns much more subject to rust than anything else? I just moved into a new house and basement is a bit damp and the dehumidifier died. Took out all my guns to oil and wipe them down. The BSS has several patches of surface rust showing. I know it was oiled just right and handled carefully because it has done this before. So have all the other Brownings I used to own, albeit the last of them went 15 years ago now. Nothing else had a hint of rust anywhere. Is it the type of bluing? I know that anytime I can take a clean gun bore patch, put a drop of oil on it, and if I rub hard on the BSS the patch will turn brown. The gun looks fine, mirror slick dark blue barrels and action, but it just bugs me that they do this. Any ideas?

#3894 10/02/06 07:29 AM
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Maybe they're just trying to live up to their name .

Cody


Tact is for those not clever enough to be sarcastic
#3895 10/02/06 08:13 AM
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My theory is that it's the steel. My BSS would get light rust in the bores very easily. Possibly the steel was either an alloy that was more sesceptable to rust than most of the 41xx steels that many American guns are made from, or possibly recycled steels and realloyed to 41xx spec but with some impurities not found in first run steels.

#3896 10/02/06 09:33 AM
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My experience with Brownings are with Superposeds, Citoris and BSS's. All were very susceptible to light rust in the chambers. Never had any particular problems with the outside or the bores. I've always believed it was because of the alloy of steel Browning specified plus the watery acid produced when firing plastic shells. I don't believe it was a problem before plastic shells came along. The cure I used was to shorten a Tico Tool into a chamber wiper(they're not much good for anything else). Using this after a day of shooting would prevent rusting 100%. Viginian's statement makes me think he has/had them in zipper cases. If so, this is a major mistake. Airproof cases can get hot then cold inside, producing moisture inside. JL


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#3897 10/02/06 09:56 AM
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Regarding rust my 6 Brownings are no different than my other guns. And, 5 of the 6 have been worn well enough to have a lot of silver showint through the blue.

Regarding chamber rust, it's mostly from the salt and acid that transfers from your hands to the shell casings. Guys who reload and shoot in the heat of summer see a lot more of this.

Chrome lined chambers help with this.

Jeff


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#3898 10/02/06 10:19 AM
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From my Midas 28 to my 3.5 Citori Brownings rust very easy. I use WD 40 on them asap after shooting and have no trouble. WD 40 will eventually build a yellow coating that is rust proof. This is one of the reasons it is great for rust and bad for a lube on the inside of your action.
bill

#3899 10/02/06 10:37 AM
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Many of us use G-96 gun treatment and swear by the stuff. Spray it on your cloth and rub it on. It's a great rust preventative and lubricant. Of course, you're using PW grease on the parts that rub, right?

FWIW I've been told that WD-40 is nothing more than perfumed Kerosene.

http://www.g96.com/

#3900 10/02/06 11:11 AM
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Have you ever thought about the fact that rust doesn't rust ? When I had my engraving co. , we would go thru approx. 2000 guns a year for engraving & bluing. (40 engravers on board) Bluing is simply a form of ferric oxide (rust) applied to bbl. We found and Duelite backed us up on the theory that parts need to stay in bluing tanks for 30 min. and then boiled for another 30 min, (boiling causes rust to set up harder)By appling this process , we found that the color and durability lasted far longer than the usual bluing procedures. While at Colt & Winchester, I found that they only blued a piece long enough (approx. 12 min. to get a blue finish. While this will somewhat suffice, the surface isn't totally encrusted with particles of rust which resist further rusting. It is my belief that the Brownings aren't blued long enough and boiled afterwards. These steps I have outlined would approx. double the cost of appling the finish which is why they probably aren't done this way. Well, that's only one mans opinion but it worked well for us. FWIW, Ken



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#3901 10/02/06 11:31 AM
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I don't believe the chamber rust has anything to do with sweat or salt from my hands. I don't stand around holding the shells in a sweaty palm. I have removed AA cases from the chamber immediately after firing and found them to be dripping wet. I believe a watery acid is formed from the heat and pressure of firing the plastic(probably poly-vinyl-chloride) shells. Paper shells, IME, do not do this. Most other guns, Remington for one, are much slower to rust in the chamber while firing the same shells. That's why the alloy steel is suspect. Browning finally chromes their chambers, I understand. JL


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#3902 10/02/06 12:58 PM
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Let me clarify a little. I do not get any rust in the chambers OR barrel interiors. Or under the forend. Just on the outside on areas that have a beautiful, slick, dark blue. And, it only happens on Brownings in my experience. All I have left now is a BSS, and in the safe with two Marlins, a Winchester 23, a Rossi dbl bbl 12 ga, a Stoeger dbl bbl 20 ga, three Remington 1100s, three Rugers, a High Standard, two Colts, and two Cimarrons, only the BSS had any rust visible at all. And, it had three really scary orangy looking rust spots on the barrels, but fortunately it wiped off with no visible ill after effects. It was not where the barrels were touching the safe rest either. Over the years I have tried Browning gun oil, WD-40, Rem Oil, Break Free, 3 in 1 Oil, that fancy English gun oil that Cape Outfitters or Dunns used to sell, G-66, Ballistol, and several other snake oils. They all worked, BUT not always on the Brownings. And in spite of all the naysayers, strictly for corrosion protection, I would vote for WD-40 every time.
It makes me think Browning must have used a different bluing process, but i don't know. Years ago Browning was no help when I talked to them. Their bluing looks better than the competition in my opinion, but it rusts mighty darned easily. But, then again, one time I forgot any oil and the same BSS got covered with sweat and blood dove hunting and didn't rust a bit before I got home and cleaned it a full day later. I have had an 1100 lightweight get rusty in the same scenario.
Not earth shattering, just got me to wondering why... again.

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