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Quote:
Cyanoacrylate glues are very strong in tension, but weaker in shear. For clean wood, Titebond II wood glue is tough to beat, but you'll need compressed air to force it into a crack. I tested various wood glues several years ago on small blocks of planed black walnut. The Titebond II was stronger than the wood when I attempted to break it apart after a couple weeks, as was Acraglas, and a Marine Epoxy. A polyurethane glue I tried was also very strong and gave a glue joint that was hard to detect, but it was messy to work with and affected finishing of the surrounding wood if you couldn't sand off what squeezed out of the joint. I have read that polyurethane glue works good when there may be traces of oil left in the wood.

The Titebond II gave me the most invisible glue joint when finished with over half a dozen various finishes including Tung oil, Permalyn, Spar Varnish, Oil Modified Urethane, Polyurethane, Watco Danish Oil, Tru-Oil, etc. With careful grain and pore matching on my test blocks, it was almost impossible to detect a closely fitted joint. For a cracked stock with no missing wood, and careful clamping, you can make a repair so invisible, no-one will ever know it was broken. This is what I was looking for. Many repaired stocks may be strong, but the glue joint sticks out like a sore thumb. I did not even test any of the Super Glues because I knew they were not ideally suited for the shear and flexing type of forces required for a lasting bond in a gunstock.


Agree on the CA issues, but it wicks well and cures quickly. It is also good for strengthening the head of a punky stock if you are not comfortable with epoxy. I prefer epoxy, but I have my own blends. Re TiteBond, it is amazing stuff under the right circumstances, but those "right circumstances" require a near-perfect glue joint because TB has absolutely no gap-filling properties. Epoxy does maintain a lot of strength when there are missing splinters or a ragged joint, and can easily be tinted to the final finish color if the joint will show. If you want to color epoxy, use dry pigments because the universal tints and oilbase colorants will interfere with the cure. Properly cured (i.e., not brittle) epoxy can be worked just like wood if you are rebuilding inletting. Different glues for different repairs, there is no one correct answer.

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In repairing broken and cracked stocks,regardles of the adhesive, clamping is very difficult to do often times, and can damage the stock in the process.I have found that one of the best methods is to wrap a strip ,cut from an innertube,of rubber around the joint. Pull the "stretch" out as you go. A few wraps will pull the joint very tightly together, making Tite Bond II a good adhesive to use.This does not make dents in the wood and is easy to do.The Gun can be assembled to insure proper placment of the parts, without fear of gluing the stock to the gun(with Tite Bond II,not epoxy).
Mike

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You might contact epoxyworks P.O. Box 908,Bay City,Mi 48707-0908 epoxyworks@gougeon.com. (they use West system epoxy which has a product called G/Flex which was designed to flex and not part under load. Hope this is of some help, Pligrim

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Satellite City, which makes Hot Stuff CA (Super) glue says their's is different in that it has high shear strength.


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Originally Posted By: builder
Satellite City, which makes Hot Stuff CA (Super) glue says their's is different in that it has high shear strength.


This company is aptly named.

Their claim is from outer space.

And NOT true.

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The folks at Loctite told me they were not familiar with any cyanoacrylate adhesives with high shear strength. I tried to find something to glue hook shims that would hold.


When an old man dies a library burns to the ground. (Old African proverb)
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Joe, I recall a couple of years ago more than one of our posters were using a 3M CA glue to do just that. I believe they were successful although I cannot be sure if it lasted. In any case, you can check Satellite City's website where they discuss this or call them at 800-786-0062. I would be interested in what you find out.


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O.T. but for securing shims in hooks try Permatex High Strength
Sleeve Retainer. (NAPA part #765-1149). It has 3000 psi shear strength & it's used to secure valve seats & valve guides in automotive cylinder heads. You can get it at NAPA & other automotive parts suppliers.

I did one gun with this about 6 months ago & so far the shim has stayed in place & I'll have a better idea of how well it works once sporting clays weather reappears this spring.

Loctite has some similar products.

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Quote:
Loctite has some similar products.


Loctite Black?

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Replacement,

No,if you mean Loctite Black Max 380. Black Max is a rubber modified cyanoacrylate.

The Loctite products closest to the Permatex High Strength Sleeve retainer would be 640 or 638 Retaining Compounds. They & the Permatex product are urethane methacraylate compounds that cure in an anerobic environment.

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