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#386586 12/08/14 08:56 PM
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Hey all, I've not posted for a while. I have been doing rust bluing for about 5 years now and my black iron tank is looking pretty sad. Can I use a stainless tank for boiling?

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Yes

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A stainless tank is well worth the extra money if you are going to be using it a lot.


B.Dudley
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I have been using a SS one for some time. Works much better than the aluminum gutter I was using☺️


Tom C

�There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.�
Aldo Leopold
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I like my black iron tank from brownell's, but over the years it has scaled away quite a bit and getting thin. I'll have to blue a few more barrels to afford the SS tank from Brownells though... I yiyi..$175.00

Last edited by dubbletrubble; 12/08/14 11:05 PM.
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Stainless is nice.
If you have an iron one and the rust and scale is getting bothersome contaminating the water prematurely, you can line it w/ aluminum foil.

If done very carefully and used with extra care,,it will work just like a stainless tank.

Use the extra-wide, heavyduty foil (18 or 24"?). A one piece job of lining the tank is done.
Careful not to tear the stuff. The ends are just tucked in X-mas wrap style. The top edges folded over the tanks edges.
Water weight will push out the wrinkles so don't worry too much about that. Avoid placing objects directly onto the bottom, you don't want to tear the foil.

Works just like a stainless tank.
It does take extra care in emptying. I used to bail it out till almost empty, then carefully dump the rest. A liner lasted several bbl bluings before I replaced it with another one. Just another sheet of foil after all.

Better than the (crusty)old iron tank,,which was one step better than the 36" fiber-glass window flower box heated w/2 electric hot water tank elements hooked up to 110 I used before that.

I finally did get a stainless tank about 20 yrs. But it's amazing what you can accomplish when you have to make do with what you have.

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I built my stainless tank. 7" X 7" X 32" long. It took one piece of 12 ga. stainless 22" X 32" with four 90 degree bends. There are two 1/2" outward bends to stiffen the sides at the top. Then there are two 7" X 7" end pieces MIG welded on, with a stainless handle at each end. Another piece of stainless about 8" X 33" makes a lid so the water heats faster. It's a pretty simple thing to build, but I had a friend with a shear and brake and a MIG set up to weld stainless. You might want to check a few local fab shops and price having one built before forking out $175.00.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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I just ordered a stainless tank from an outfit here in Canada. Looks exactly like the tank Brownells sells with exact same dimensions only $50.00 cheaper. Last time I checked on Brownells they had them listed at $199.00.

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Stainless steel is fine for boiling in rustbluing or cleaning or oil in hot bluing; but do not use it for caustic salts in hot bluing.
Mike

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I was using a regular iron tank, the only drawback was that it wasn't wide enough for 32" barrels. I found a lightweight 8" flanged stainless cylinder at my local scrap yard. I then self-tapped the flanged end to the top of a pressure cooker I also found at the yard. I sealed the flange with JB Weld before I drilled the self-tappers through the flange. I modified a turkey fryer stand by replacing the burner with a high output wok burner, running on natural gas. I adjust with a ball valve, the output is so high I can make sure I never lose a boil. The tank is set up vertically, and can hold two barrel sets at a time. It's easy to remove the barrels by their hangers and hang them up to dry nearby. It works well in the basement, I also installed an exhaust fan and made a hood from a scrap wood frame and aluminum foil.

I started out using it for longer barrels, but found it so easy to use that I now use it for all barrel boiling.

Ken


I prefer wood to plastic, leather to nylon, waxed cotton to Gore-Tex, and split bamboo to graphite.
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