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Joined: Oct 2006
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Maybe someone can shed some light on a problem I am havine. Last year I restored a Parker GH. New stock finish, engraveing re-cut and new finish on Camascus barrels. After the case colors were done (Case Color Company) The barrels did not fit. It took quite a bit of fileing on the breach face to get this barrel set to fit.
Same thing this year except I had Calssic Guns do the case colors. The barrels don't come close to fitting. The top lever is not moveing from the open position. The top lever works just fine when I trip the small lever to move it to center when transporting.

When I put some magic marker on the breach faces it shows about the same wear pattern as the older gun. Is this common on Parkers? I have done ten other guns in the past five years and not a single problem like this.

I am not trying to bad mouth Case Color Company or Classic Guns at all. I am just looking for some information.

Thank you in advance, Gordon


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I don't know, but I don't think fileing or taking metal off the breach face is the correct way to fit a barrel.

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Dave
Sorry. I am tiking material9Very small amounts with a very fine file) off of the breach end of the barrels.


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Re-browning or bluing the barrels would not make them longer. I don't believe re-case coloring the frame will make it grow, either. It seems more likely that the frames were warped in the process. I'd strongly suggest you get these guns to someone who really knows what he's doing before you mess them up. No disrespect intended.


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Jim
No disprect implied. I am going to see if the gun smith that did the last gun will come out of retirement and help me out. I really don't want to take to much material off of the barrels.
Thanks for the advice, Gordon


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You are going to be in one fine fix if the breech of the barrels is not where the interference is. I once saw a set of Beretta 680 series barrels that were about a sixty fourth short at the breech because the guy fitting them had no idea what he was doing and filed at the face of the breech and the ejectors until the barrels went on. The interference was actually elsewhere.

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Eightbore
I haven't removed anywhere that much material. I used a magic marker and coated teh ends of the barrels with black,let dry and put the barrels on the frame. I then looked at the wear marks and just removed the smallest amount of material. This is not doing any good after three tries so I am seeking professional help.Doing this procedure has made the worn off spot move around. I suspect that the standing breech has moved a few thousand's but I am just not sure.

Thanks for yor help, Gordon


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I have been made curious concerning the exact method of attack in removing warpage interference from a recased action. Matter of cold-bending here; bit of light reaming there; a salutary tippy-tap in between? For that matter, how does correction differ from the process of jointing or rejointing a gun with removable hingepin or from the cottage industry process of dressing down a shimmed hook to put an old gun on face, or more aptly perhaps, with the breech ends of its barrels back "at the face"? I know Oscar found some sort of fixtures or retainers a desirable addition to the bar before it went in the charcoal pack. One would guess he didn't think a warped bar was very easily corrected. Perhaps someone could give us a primer, or barring that, we could have one of our blind men touching the elephant discussions until we produce a vaguely mammalian shape.

jack

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Might also be helpful if someone would characterize typical modes of warping. Does the water table twist or go in winding? Does the angle between water table and breech wall close up or open? Can the boring for lever spindle be affected such that lever binds? Can the orientation or free operation of underbolting be affected?

jack

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The thinnest feeler gauge I have is .0015 and it goes in between the right barrel and the standing breach, just. This feeler gauge does not go in between the left barrel at all. The material that I removed is on the right barrel where the magic marker ink was worn off.

I used this feeler gauge on my other guns and some have this much gap and others don't. The Fox won't let this gauge in but the Lefever will. The pair of Webley and Scott's won't but the Scott hammer guns will.

My retierd gun smith will help my out next week but this is a frustating experience.


Thank you all for your input.

Gordon


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