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BrentD #436007 02/15/16 01:14 PM
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Vall thanks a bunch.
Brent


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BrentD #436010 02/15/16 01:22 PM
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BrentD,,Thank you for taking the time to explain what happened w/Classic Guns.

BrentD #436013 02/15/16 02:17 PM
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Brent,
Isn't there a Chemistry Dept.,at your University? They should be able to get the chemicals you require in small amounts. Alternatively you could send the parts to our mutual friend in San Diego, he can do a great Nitre Blue.

Harry


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BrentD #436015 02/15/16 02:21 PM
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Harry, There is a world-class chem department here, but I can't buy stuff here with cash money, and I would never misappropriate funds from other accounts. So, yeah it is here in reagent grade quality no less, but I can't take advantage of it, unfortunately. the stump killer stuff looks just fine however and I will be searching for this down at the local farm-supply store soon.


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BrentD #436028 02/15/16 04:31 PM
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The Classic Guns episode was a rifle loony's classic nightmare. Wish you COULD just wake up and have your '95 back.... Great gun--great loss!

BrentD #436084 02/15/16 11:06 PM
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Have had very good experience (quality and turnaround) with
Mike Hunter at http://www.mikehunterrestorations.com/
Chuck

BrentD #436178 02/16/16 10:50 PM
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Chuck, thanks for the complement, and referral.

Brent, don’t know what happened with your Marlin without looking at it, but it sounds like too deep of a case, and possibly the steel cooled too quickly.

About a year ago, I ran across something akin to what you described; customer had sent an 1886 to get CCH, when he got the parts back, the frame had warped, and the buttplate cracked when he tried to install it. He then sent it to me “to fix”.
Looking at the frame and parts, I could tell that they had been quenched at too high a temperature, and more than likely quenched in a brine solution. A brine solution makes “water wetter” meaning it cools more rapidly than plain water.

There was also no post case hardening heat treatment.

Lots of folks doing case hardening now, I’m not sure all understand what is actually going on besides pretty colors.

Respectfully

Mike

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Brent D,
Walter Grass taught me how he fire blued screws, pins, etc. He held the polished screw in a pair of long nosed pliers, and played it in and out of the flame of his propane torch. In doing this, he watched very closely the color change. When he got the color he wanted, he quenched in oil. Interestingly, he used a similar procedure for hardening firing pins. He heated to cherry red and quenched the polished firing pin. He then polished the hardened firing pin bright again. This time he held the firing pin with a piece of iron wire wrapped around it( to prevent the "heat sink" pliers would provide). He played it in and out of the flame also, concentrating on the heavier, rear part of the pin. Due to different diameters, the color will run from the heavier to lighter parts( larger to smaller).When the color runs to "Straw" at the tip, from blue at the back end. This leaves it harder at the back, where it is struck by the hammer; while the smaller part that strikes the primer, is drawn to be tough rather than brittle. This requires that the colors be closely watched. BTY, parts that were "straw" can be colored the same way as the screws, just quench when the color runs to straw. This takes less time than heating the lead pot to temp.
Mike

BrentD #437064 02/26/16 12:57 PM
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FWIW, I went looking for KNO3 today at Theisen's (local farm supply store).

I found Gordon's Stump Killer right off the bat. It was, however a liquid, and, with the help of someone else's eyeballs, it seems that primary ingredient is Glyphosate (Round-Up weed killer). However, I then found a 1# jar of Gordon's Stump Remover which was some sort of crystals, and did not have any ingredients listed on the label. But it the MSD sheet for it lists it as 99% KNO3, so exactly what I needed for under $8.

Many thanks to Cameron for the suggestion. I will be bluing some screws this weekend as I just got my engraved parts back from Turnbull yesterday.

Remember, is the Stump REMOVER, not Killer that you want.


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BrentD #437067 02/26/16 01:03 PM
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I forgot to ask, what is a target temperature for a nice fire blue? 700? I am sure I can look this up but if anyone as a number off the top of their head, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks again.
Brent


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...never pay Dave "one more dime"
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