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Joined: Jul 2005
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
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A few thoughts:
Put the rotary tool in the closet before you start on the stock. If you can't do it without a rotary tool, you can't do it.
It takes five years to cure a gunstock blank.
Think twice about a first time job without refinishing the metal.
Using the original stock as a pattern will probably screw it up.
The last, best way to screw up a gunstock is checkering.
You get what you pay for.
It's all about the quality you expect in the finished product.
Best of luck.

Joined: Mar 2006
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Sidelock
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Quote:
Put the rotary tool in the closet before you start on the stock. If you can't do it without a rotary tool, you can't do it.

I disagree. Explain further.

Quote:
Think twice about a first time job without refinishing the metal.

Explain why, please.
Quote:
Using the original stock as a pattern will probably screw it up.

How? If the stock fits what's the matter with using it as a pattern. If it doesn't fit, modify the pattern so it does before duplicating. There are alot of stocks out there that don't have in house patterns.
Quote:
The last, best way to screw up a gunstock is checkering.

Not if you turn it over to someone competent which I'm sure was the plan.
Quote:
You get what you pay for.

That is usually the case, which was mark's question in the first place. I think he was looking to qualify what his money would buy with Wenig, not addressed by your post...or was it?
Quote:
Best of luck.

Are you sure?

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Sidelock
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I completely agree with putting the rotary tool in the closet before the job is started. The gentleman admits to being a novice, and a rotary tool will eat away far more wood than you want before you know it. It's conceivable you could use one for some exterior shaping, although hand tools work better, but you can muck up inletting before you can pull the bit out of the wood with a powered rotary tool. Hand inletting tools are the only way to assure a good job. I think the remark about not using the original stock as a pattern is intended to say that the original stock would be screwed up, not the newly cut blank. A method of attaching the original stock into the machine duplicator must be used, and this most often will make the original unusable for use on a gun again, although it can be kept and used again as a pattern. I am sure Mr. Hughes was sincere in his "Best Of Luck" statement. He is simply trying to point out pitfalls to be avoided.

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Sidelock
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Hey Hansli, I'm just throwing out some thoughts based upon 30+ years of benchwork.
Here's an internet joke:
DREMEL TOOL - A very useful tool for modellers which allows them to make more mistakes much faster, thereby turning $100 kits into spare parts, and completely justifying the purchase of another $100 kit.

It is about 100 times easier to achieve good wood to metal fit if you plan on refinishing the metalwork. Not a bad plan for an entry level project.

A stock pattern must be jigged to mount in a duplicating machine, and between that and the stylus running over the original finish, there a very good chance the the "original" stock won't remain original.

Turning the checkering over to a professional is a wise choice.

I think the earlier posts demonstrate the financial aspect.

I always wish good luck to anyone embarking on a first time endeavor.

Didn't mean to ruffle your grouse.

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Sidelock
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You didn't really. My reply was on the loud side, though. I just thought your comments seemed like generalizations that would discourage anyone attempting such a project. Sorry if I crossed you or anyone else and thank you for your responses.

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I agree With SDH-Mt. My first restock was with hand tools and I still managed to take to much (small amount) off of one corner of my SKB Model 200. And with fitting the stock to the action (Itaped the metal with masking tape) I still managed to hit the metal on one side. I removed the blueing and had the action case colored but it is good advice. If you are going to restock a gun why not have the metal redone as well. I had my checkering done by a professional, the only way to fly.
Just my opinion. I like to restore stuff. Cars,furniture, guns or whatever.
Gordon


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Sidelock
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I don't consider restocking an easy job, and it sometimes seems as if it is portrayed in that way. I've seen some pretty fair jobs for a first attempt, taught stocking in my workshop and at NRA seminars, and, earlier in my career, had to straighten-out some horrible messes. I've also written a fair bit on the subject, which is difficult to convey in this format.
My comments were meant to evoke some thought, and as Chief said, point out some of the potential pitfalls.
I do mean, Best of Luck!
All is well, and thanks for the support, guys!
Steve
And BTW, I have a very expensive rotary tool head that interchanges with the electric checkering head. About the only thing I use it for is to shorten pins with a small cut-off wheel, and with carbide dental burrs to grind out broken taps and the like. In other words, as little as possible.

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Steven, i really enjoy your book,Fine Gunmaking- Double Shotguns! I consider it tops! Bobby

Joined: May 2002
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Steven, I also enjoyed your book. Years ago there was a local guy who had a reputation for "customizing" guns with a dremel tool. We have a neighborhood gunshop where guys hang around, especially on rainy days. Anytime the lights would dim or the power would go out somebody would holler out "oh no, ol' Bob must have fired up his dremel tool!". Bill

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I had them do some work - a Perazzi set. I sent them the wood to copy and not only did they NOT copy the wood I sent it was a sh7t job. First and last for me with them. $300+ down the drain since there are no refunds or adjustment if they copy "your" wood. Screw them.

WtS


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