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Joined: Mar 2002
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Sidelock
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Have you measured the bars to see if there is any major difference in size? If your bar is too tight did you try just adjusting the fit of the part that holds it? Spread up to loosen or close downward to get a tighter fit. I have adjusted them to make them tighter to reduce the amount of powder that gets between the bar and the bracket. Now they make brass washers to snug the fit so yor wont get powder migration.

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the rubber on the 302 bar was designed to ease sliding if a stray lead pellet got caught between the bar and the guide. it would allow the pellet to roll along. old bars w/o it could actually stop the bar and jam the operation. ive converted the old 600jr's to the new rubber bars and find them to be a little tight. the tightness of the bottles will also effect the operation of the bar. whatever amount you pry can be countered with the brass washer and screwing the bottle down tighter on a new rubber gasket. good luck.


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I personally would not bend where the bar slides. There is something wrong with the bar you have or you have a Mec reloader that is been long discontinued.

The brass washer is used for fine flake powders like Win. AA Lite and Titewad for an example and you take out the rubber washer (grommet) if you use the red powder baffle..
On all my powder bottles I use the red powder baffle. This helps for even powder drops. You would be amazed at how even your powder drops will be when you measure them (10 for average) with the powder baffle and then without.

If you go to Shot Gun World, then to the Reloading part and ask your question you will get an answer to anything about reloading.

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=13&sid=c41eae0f253f88c53e480ab5b989042c


David


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Sidelock
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Why not just call the factory and ask them??

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Bingo, and bingo again.

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Calling the maker is always the right answer when questions like this come up. However, some businesses have wonderful customer relations representatives and others do not.

We have a knowledge base on this forum which can provide reliable answers to so many of the questions that come up in our area of interest. Nothing wrong with asking here first. JMHO...Geo

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randy Offline OP
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It appears that the newer charge bars are just not machined and polished to the tolerances of the older charge bars. All of the charge bars are stamped 302, the only difference being the newer ones have a silicone rubber insert on the shot side. The newer bars slide and get bound up in the old reloader. I know someone who has about 50 of these charge bars in his shop, I will try them out until I find ones that fit and also have the 1oz, 7/8, and 3/4 oz size that I need. The old reloader only has 1 1/8, 1 1/4 and 1 3/8.

Thank you all for the ideas and information, and yes I agree with Geo. you can get a huge amount of information and ideas on this forum and the 16 gauge forum, that customer service may not have had the experience.

Last edited by randy; 08/26/16 12:58 PM.
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I have adjustable charge bars in both my Mec 500s. They are worth their weight in gold, no bushings, and if the crimp is a bit dished, well, open up the shot side, add a few pellets and solve the problem.
Mike

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randy Offline OP
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One of those universal bars was in the box with the older reloader but I never took the time to adjust it and use it, mainly because my scale is one of the old Redding balance beams, and it takes too long to measure shot charges. That would be a good alternative, though

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Randy, you measure shot charges? I would imagine that charge bar is set pretty close to a trap load as is.

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