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Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 29
Boxlock
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Boxlock

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 29
I am planning to stick to the 1 oz loads for now, and plan to have the gun looked at before too long. The stock appears to be expertly repaired, very much like the Fox I had repaired.

I would think, but do not know for sure that anyone that went through the expense of having the stock redone, and the crack fixed, would have glass bedded it as well, but will try to find that out. Is there any real trick to taking off the side plates and taking a peek? This is the first Smith or sidelock I have ever owned. So have no experience taking it apart.

Joined: Jan 2006
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Sidelock
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TO TAKE OFF THE LOCK PLATES- First cock the hammers, turn out the lock screw and drive off right lock plate by tapping head of lock screw after the thread has cleared right lock plate; insert screw from opposite side and drive off left lock plate. Clean and oil each piece before putting back... (From the Hunter Arms Co. L. C. Smith Gun 1920s Hang Tags)



You will not be able to assess the extent of the previous repairs, or glasbedding, without looking at the head of the stock, which would require separation of the action and stock, which you DON'T want to attempt without expert guidance. Getting things apart ain't hard; it's the getting them back together that is the challenge!

Courtesy of David Williamson.
Make sure that the hammers are cocked and that you have the right size screw driver or bit to fit the slots. Remove front screws, one on each side if a Featherweight (if screws slots were orientated to length of gun, make sure you mark them left and right). Remove long side plate screw and I insert it in the threaded hole (right side plate) and either it will pull off or lightly tap the plate with the back of a screwdriver and it should come off. On the left hand side lock plate I insert a 1/8" drift pin into the rear hole in the right side housing and lightly tap the other (left) side lock off (this hole is fairly large to accept the sears.)
Look inside and see how everything looks. Make sure firing pins do not fall out when you turn gun over.
FOR REASSEMBLY The long neck of the sideplate has a spur-like protrusion that fits into the receiver housing; this must be inserted first or else the sideplate will not go on. That part actually locks the side plate in. If you moved the cocking rods at the end of the receiver, (the two lever type devices), make sure that they are in the upward position or else the lifter on the cocking rod will not let the side lock plate fit.
Also be sure the hammers are (still) cocked and the triggers are in the down/lower position.



You will likely need to grind a bit to EXACTLY fit the lock screw slot, and may need to tap around the edge of the lockplate with a plastic hammer to loosen the plate. You don't want to chip the wood around the lockplate.

Joined: Jan 2016
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Boxlock
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Boxlock

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 29
thanks!

Joined: Feb 2006
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Sidelock
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"You will likely need to grind a bit to EXACTLY fit the lock screw slot"

Brother Drew, that was written quite a while ago, before I bought a set of Wheeler bits.
They have bits that fit every screw on/in an L.C. Smith exactly as to width and length of slot..


David


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