doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion German & Austrian Sporting Guns @ doublegunshop.com .22 Vierling Brass

It is sad that this brass is not available for reloading. Yes one could make the necessary tools to reduce the rim thickness from the front and reduce the rim diameter but I have not the training or skills of operating machinery to custom make the necessary equipment.
Thus far NO US reloading die/tooling company wants to make the needed tools even on a custom basis.
Sad!
Too bad RWS or other brass making companies aren't interested in making a special run of brass for the many who own .22 Vierling (5.6 X 35R) firearms.

Jim

If you have a variable speed electric drill and a fine file you can easily reduce the rim thickness of .22 Hornet cases. Go slow until you gain confidence and come up with a case that will chamber and eject.

Then make a little gage from sheet metal slotted for the rim of that functional case to check the rim thickness of the rest every few cuts until each fits. Kinda tedious but gets the job done.

The hardest part is that the Hornet-soon-to-be-Vierling cases are so small that you have to go extra slow, hence the need for variable speed. Not a job for Butterfingers....

If you were closer I would be happy to help you modify some brass. Have done this with a number of guns that were chambered for a gunsmith proprietary cartridge. The last being one by Peterlongo.

A thought would be to look up a hobby machinist in your area. They are usually more than happy to show off their skills. A small hobby metal lathe can make quick work of case modification.

WBLDon

.22WCF should have the correct rim and is available here => http://www.buffaloarms.com/22_WCF_Reloading_Brass_it-156929.aspx?CAT=3834

I did as Don suggests and had a friend turn some Hornet cases for me. Since then, I stumbled into a small quantity of original WCF cases. I have not shot them yet but they seem to work.

ohiochuck,
On cases as small as 22 Hornet, it is difficult to get to the front of the rim, which is the "school" position to thin it from. With modern solid head case, it is my unlearned opinion that you can thin the rims from the rear. You can do one, then section it to see if there is enough brass left. If the primer pocket has to be deepened (maybe, maybe not), Lyman makes a tool that can be used( primer pocket uniformer) by hand. An additional benefit from thinning from the rear is that it removes the old headstamp.