doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DIY Gunsmithing @ doublegunshop.com color case hardening

The old story, you can take a boy out of the surf, but not his flip flops?

I can completely understand. Way I see it is I have about 20 side by sides needing restoration and plenty of coal and alot of figuring it out to do.

Just for the record, Mike is my favorite both for color and hardness.
Did not know he was doing it in a t-shirt and flip-flops.
He has done several rifle actions for me.
Chuck

Thanks for all who constructively contribute to this board.

I can understand Mike not wanting to give up his setup as it appears to be his livelihood. On top of that I am sure that his product, as a professional, is far superior to whatever I may end cobbling together as a DIY'er. I do have the sense to know not to try most of what I am leaning about on any gun of value. However, as I have accumulated a decent stock of vintage field grade projects that beg for messing with, I am going to learn on. Hell most of my guns are going to get beat back up in use anyway.

That being said and this being a DIY board and everyone has to start at ground zero, anyone's input from experience is greatly appreciated.

Travis, I'm looking forward to seeing your results. It is something I would like to try someday as well.

Here are some suggestions /ideas to ponder.

If you truly want the factory look, you have to do it the way the factory did it, or a close as possible.

Stop looking at DT�s colors, they are bright beautiful, awesome colors, but� not quite original.

Wood/Bone ratio. Original CCH has a very translucent look to them. The more bone, the more opaque the colors become. Reduce the amount of bone.

Quench temp: Again, they did true case hardening, meaning above 1600 deg F. The hardened steel has a different look to it. I know most want to stay below 1300 deg F where warpage is minimized. Crank it up to 1400+ with some scrap parts, see what happens.

Water temp: most period gun makers were in New England, ground water temps were a little cooler up there, shoot for quench water temp around 47 deg F.

Ignore folks that suggest adding hoofs, leather etc� they don�t have a clue. Hoofs are made of keratin, same as fingernails and hair; and are full of crap literally� Nails, rocks and manure, I have a horse ranch, I know what�s in hoofs, do you really want all that in your mix. OBTW when you heat it to 1000+ it melts, and forms a black goo. Leather, pretty much the same issue, plus the tanning compounds. OBTW it stinks to high heaven�.trust me.. I�ve tried it.

Hey Mike, thanks.

Interesting comment on the Bone to wood ratio. I believe Robin Brown in the UK uses 100% bone charcoal. Much to learn. My oven is not getting used enough and I think that is going to change.

Question on warpage.

Is warpage from the high temp quench generally just enough that previously fitted wood no longer fits or is warpage like twisted beyond mechanical functioning? Or is it all a crap shoot and all in between?

If it is the former, then would my logic make sense that on projects that are going to be re-stocked that I do the high temp quench and then restock stock to fit?

Steve, simple test to conduct, try one with 100% bone and another with 100% wood.

Priorities were 1. Hard wear resistant outer shell on steel, 2. Attractive finish. It doesn�t take much bone to �activate� the process to get hardness.

The assumption can be made that back in the day, bone char was more expensive than wood charcoal, when you�re buying it by the ton that can make a difference.