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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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If the gun shoots well for you, that's one thing, but I can't stand beavertail forends...

I have a Miroku Daly that came with a semi-beavertail forend. I saved the original forend but made a splinter from scratch...and checkered it myself. Turned out well.

I think it would be much easier to render the Beavertail to a smaller dimension. I had an English Miroku that came with a splinter for a pattern. Checkering is something that takes a lot of practice.

Good luck Dave

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I have a 12 ga 280E that I've thought about turning the BT to a splinter. When I get to the point of making a decision, I think about tagging along to the local gun club with my dad when I was a young kid and the fascination I had at the time, of the doubles sitting in the gun racks and how cool I thought the BT forearm looked. I told myself at the time "one day I'll have a SxS with a BT forearm."

I guess nostalgia has prevented me, to this point, from changing it to a splinter. Plus, like you I shoot it well and it's the only double I have with the BT forearm.

If I do decide to change it to a splinter, it would be interesting to see how yours turns out, if you chose to go that route.


Cameron Hughes
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It's actually a pretty simple job, I have done a few but not an skb.
Don't over think it just get out your tools and do it. Take your time around the nose to make it perfect and you can't miss.
Just my thoughts, Tom

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I've replaced 3 of them. Bought one forend wood on ebay (listed as Ithaca but knew what it was) the others and parts required from Ron Sharp (Sharps Guns) in Canada, previous Ithaca employee that purchased all the remaining parts inventory. Parts were last purchased about 4 years ago. Any remaining?

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Larry, this one is marked "New SKB Arms Company." The receiver/engraving is a dead ringer for the 385, but it's clearly a 200E in other ways. It's not the most offensive beavertail I've seen and in fairness to the gun it feels pretty good in hand. That said, this would be even niftier with a more streamlined forend.






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Dave, also factory recoil pad IIRC? I think the main knock on those guns, for fans of the older Ithaca imports, is that they were heavier. I bought 2 20ga 200E's, new, 28 years ago this month for $850 apiece. (One was for a hunting partner who was also a big SKB fan.) Thought that was a pretty good price, considering what they were going for when Ithaca ceased importing them about 14 years earlier.

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Larry, yes, factory "SKB" pad. With a microcell pad swap it's right at 6 3/4 lb. which isn't too bad for a modern any-ammo 12 with ejectors and choke tubes. The receiver has been glass bedded, btw. Shaving the beaver would most likely take the weight down a little bit more. It's a 99% gun and I've only got a couple hundred more involved in it than the 20 gauges you mention above. Most important thing is this thing shoots really well for me. I used it at the Great Northern last time I shot up there and held my own with it. It's a handy spot-hopping pheasant gun. I've had two SKB 100 12 gauges and they were both lighter, but I didn't shoot either one particularly well and had no confidence with them.

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I'd say you made a good buy, Dave . . . and it's obviously working out well for you. Short barrels are somewhat "out of fashion" these days, especially on 12's. But if you shoot it well, that's the important thing.

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I didn't have any putty or Play Dough handy, so I cut a couple rectangular strips of low-grade (thin) paper towels and laid them in the barrel channels. With the paper in place I couldn't come close to snapping the forearm shut. The last fuzzy picture shows the end of the forearm with no paper and snapped shut. It seems to be fitted pretty close. A chance for a long, lean splinter or perhaps a lean(er) semi-BT?




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I'll get some modeling clay and try that next, but I'm starting to have my doubts on whether this is a good idea or not..

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