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Joined: Mar 2009
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You are mistaken King, or maybe I was poor in how I posted.

The J and K I was referring to Jagerm.. and Keith

I will fix my poorly made post


Michael Dittamo
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I thought there may have been an error, Michael. No damage.

Interesting that a googled "urban dictionary" definition of the derogatory word said its use was common in western Pennsylvania, of all places. Pulaski, perhaps!


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pomofo Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: keith
You actually can have it all... a house, college for the kids, and junk guns.

Yours sounds very fixable, but there are two paths. One involves paying a pro to do your gunsmithing, and the other is fixing it yourself. Stabbing yourself with a screwdriver is not the greatest start, but there is a lot of info in the archives here including techniques for removing frozen screws without butchering either yourself or your gun. On the flip side is the thought that you might enjoy buying and fixing old guns and end up spending thousands on tools. Or you could be one of those bubbas who messes up decent guns by using the wrong techniques and materials.

Either way, you have come to the right place to either find good information or good gunsmiths. But if a guy called Jagermeister offers his opinion, just remember that you are a beginner who actually owns a drilling, and he is one of those internet fakes who doesn't own one lousy double shotgun. And that is much sadder than poking a hole in your thumb.

Take your time. Learn all you can. Check out the gunsmithing sub forum to help you decide how best to proceed. If you fix your own gun and someone can tell it was repaired... then you didn't do a good job.


I'll try to get things apart and see what I can fix myself. I have plenty of tooling from building ARs and AKs and working on my Mausers. If I need to reshape a top lever spring I have a mill and plenty of files. The screws I might even be able to do by buying blank pins and threading the ends with the proper die. I just don't want to get into a situation where I'm spending hundreds of dollars on a gunsmith who does things to absolute perfection when in reality I just need a couple of small parts to keep this thing running for the amount of shooting I'll do with it in the next 30-40 years.

Thanks for pointing out the gunsmithing subforum, I see a lot of discussion of top lever springs so I'll be sure to read them all.

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Pomofo,

You said this was sold as part of a lot. I'm assuming this was an auction? Sold as-is? Was the gun misrepresented in any way? It may perhaps be easier to return it if it wasn't sold under the as-is precedence. Unless you were looking for a fun project, this could end up being more money than it is worth in the long run. I've certainly had my share of money-pit projects and still have some sitting around probably...but if its possible to return the gun, it may behoove you to send it back and continue the search? Just a thought...as I said, I've been in your shoes many times. I guess it's all part of the learning experience...

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pomofo,
Now is not the time to get really concerned about the cost of repair.
It may not take as much as it looks like now. You can take it one part at a time, from maybe different sources. I have a tipup German rifle that had one leg of the top lever spring broken. As a "make do" fix, I just jammed a leaf from another broken spring into the "V". That was 25 years ago and I have used it since, even killing deer with it. Your problem might not be that simple, but it might. This is sort of a standard spring anyway and I think Dixie Gun Works may some in stock( 2or3 types). The photo showed the right hammer missing, if you don't have it, that may be a problem to "match", but one that "works" can likely be found. The oil soaked wood can be a problem. I suggest you check closely for loose coming ribs and cracks in the action, these can be insurmountable problems, if they exist. If you don't insist on a re-finish to "factory new", you will save a lot of money. From the photos, you might have a pretty unusual type of drilling. It has exterior hammers but the selector is not common for hammer drillings. This leads to the possibility that the rifle fires from a separate hammer on the trigger plate. I suggest you join the German Gun Collectors Assn. and buy reprints of a series of articles by John Laborde, discussing different drilling types. I think I would be pretty excited to have it. Try to make clear photos of all the markings, even if you have to have help.
Mike

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Originally Posted By: fallschirmjaeger
Pomofo,

You said this was sold as part of a lot. I'm assuming this was an auction? Sold as-is? Was the gun misrepresented in any way? It may perhaps be easier to return it if it wasn't sold under the as-is precedence. Unless you were looking for a fun project, this could end up being more money than it is worth in the long run. I've certainly had my share of money-pit projects and still have some sitting around probably...but if its possible to return the gun, it may behoove you to send it back and continue the search? Just a thought...as I said, I've been in your shoes many times. I guess it's all part of the learning experience...


This is the lot I won: Auction

Assuming I could get $200-250 total for the cheap SxS and Flobert, that would have meant a really good price for the drilling and Tell rifle together. I figured even if the drilling had problems like being really loose that I could get $500 if I had to sell it. But I think it's worth keeping. And the Tell rifle is nice too. Aside from some small rust freckles here and there on the barrel, it's kept most of its blue. It too was incorrectly described, as it appears to be a 9.3x57R/360 rather than 8.15x46R. Having to send anything back would be pretty time-consuming, better to sell things off and recoup my money if need be.

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I think you did quite well with fun guns to spend some quality
time with.
SWEET
Mike


USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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Originally Posted By: Der Ami
pomofo,
Now is not the time to get really concerned about the cost of repair.
It may not take as much as it looks like now. You can take it one part at a time, from maybe different sources. I have a tipup German rifle that had one leg of the top lever spring broken. As a "make do" fix, I just jammed a leaf from another broken spring into the "V". That was 25 years ago and I have used it since, even killing deer with it. Your problem might not be that simple, but it might. This is sort of a standard spring anyway and I think Dixie Gun Works may some in stock( 2or3 types). The photo showed the right hammer missing, if you don't have it, that may be a problem to "match", but one that "works" can likely be found. The oil soaked wood can be a problem. I suggest you check closely for loose coming ribs and cracks in the action, these can be insurmountable problems, if they exist. If you don't insist on a re-finish to "factory new", you will save a lot of money. From the photos, you might have a pretty unusual type of drilling. It has exterior hammers but the selector is not common for hammer drillings. This leads to the possibility that the rifle fires from a separate hammer on the trigger plate. I suggest you join the German Gun Collectors Assn. and buy reprints of a series of articles by John Laborde, discussing different drilling types. I think I would be pretty excited to have it. Try to make clear photos of all the markings, even if you have to have help.
Mike


It's a pretty ingenious system, took me several minutes to figure out how it worked. The little button on the selector has to be depressed, only then can the selector switch between shotgun and rifle. Here's a picture of the locks, you can see that the right hammer has a little nub below the face of the hammer.



When the rifle barrel is selected, it pushes out this little square block ahead of the rifle firing pin face.



Pulling the trigger releases the hammer, and the lower nub hits the square piece which hits the face of the firing pin, which can then strike the primer. That block also keeps the main hammer face from striking the right shotgun barrel firing pin. Switch back to shotgun and the block is withdrawn into the action so that the firing pin can strike the shotgun firing pin and not the rifle.

It's a pretty neat little gun, lots of patina and dried grease but no real rust or pitting. All the proof marks I could find are here.







Both shotgun barrels have nitro proofs but there's none that I can see on the rifle barrel. It looks like the 8.7mm marking is stamped on top of an old marking that was polished away. The eagle doesn't look to be either the Reichsadler or the Bundesadler, so I'm assuming these proofs date from the Weimar era, although I wouldn't be surprised if the gun is actually older.

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Originally Posted By: skeettx
I think you did quite well with fun guns to spend some quality
time with.
SWEET
Mike


Yeah, I'm planning to sell the Belgian 12 gauge because it has laminated steel barrels and I have enough 12 gauge doubles to work on already. I was thinking of getting rid of the Flobert too, but now that I find that Dixie makes 32 rimfire adapters I might try to see if that works. It might make a good first rifle for my son once he's old enough, too. And I can't wait to take a closer look at the Tell rifle.

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I have always been interested in those Tell rifles. Well done! If it is in good shape, that alone almost makes the deal worth it. I've always wanted one for a walkabout Kipplaufbuechse - but the stars have yet to align. I didn't realize that was in the mix...I absolutely support your choice. I hope you'll post more about it in the rifle section as I would be very interested.

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