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Sidelock
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TOW has them ("Ampco Bronze")

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At the time I bought the ones I have I believe I bought them from Dixie Gunworks. I do seem to remember them being advertised as being made of Beryllium Bronze an alloy which is both harder & more heat resistant than ordinary Bronze, an alloy of copper & tin. Brass is an alloy of copper & zinc.

Whatever the exact alloy is I have nothing but good to say them. Actually, their color looks good against browned barrels in my opinion.


Miller/TN
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Hi all, if the gun is English, be wary of nipple thread size. Most percussion era English nipple threads were 1/4" BSF 26 tpi, this does NOT correspond to the thread of 1/4" UNF which has 28 tpi and a different thread form. I have tried to buy BSF nipples from TOTW in the past, but they only stocked UNF. Hope to this saves someone graunching threads!!

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My, I Hollis was Birmingham made & had ¼-28 threads. The new ¼-28 threaded nipples screwed right in by hand only needing the wrench for final tightening.

It did not have original nipples in it when I acquired it, so they may have been recut, but there was no visible evidence of it.


Miller/TN
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Interesting about the Hollis and i think you are right they probably have been recut to take readily available nipples. You would not necessarily see where a good craftsman has been! I can't believe Hollis would have used UNF, or SAE (Society of American Engineers) threads as would have been at the time (same thread form).
All my English original guns are 1/4" BSF taking No. 11 caps, except a large fowling piece which has a military style nipple taking 4 winged musket caps. The thread generally used on these is 5/16" BSW. Hope this helps.

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My Wm. Moore 2 groove circa pre-1845 is also 1/4" 28 tpi and does not look re-cut. I have had a bunch of other British ML's through that also have 1/4" 28 nipples. I never have run across BSF threads in any that have come through my shop. I am not saying you are wrong, just relating my experience.


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My I Hollis carries the optional Provisional proof mark showing it was given this proof in the finished state along with the definitive so appears to have been made after 1868.

I am a Craftsman, spent over .35 years in the machinist trade. I tapped a lot of holes in that time. It is near impossible to change the pitch of the thread without it showing up. In changing from 26 to 28 TPI you will change the width of each thread by about ..003". This accumulates so after about 5 threads the original thread will be cut in about half. All threads appeared full down to the bottom of the nipple seat.


Miller/TN
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Hi 2-piper, my term recut in my post was an unfortunate generalisation term. As you say, of course you would not be able to make 1/4" BSF into 1/4" UNF by tapping it out. But, I have seen an example where a breech plug nipple hole thread was so badly worn, the remains of the thread had to be bored out, a plug screwed/welded back in, and the plug drilled and tapped to the desired thread. Once cleaned up with an end mill, you would never have known it had been done (other than being very clean).

Hi SKB, very interesting that you have seen many English Guns with 1/4" 28 tpi threaded nipple holes with presumably a UNF type thread form. We all live and learn!

Also interesting to note that BSW and UNC threads have the same tpi, but different thread form.

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Mine was not "Very Clean". I am pretty positive it had not been bushed. Everything about it simply leads me to believe it was originally tapped ¼-28 NF.


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Originally Posted By: Stan
I have "turned down" nipples that were too large, or too tight a fit for my #11 caps. Different brands vary a wee bit but not enough to fix your issue. I just removed the nipple, wrapped the threads with several layers of Teflon thread tape for some protection, lightly tightened it in the chuck of my drill press, and with it turning at the slowest speed available hold a file to the cap area of the nipple and take a little off at the time, to the point that a cap slips on and stays on place while it is upside down in the drill press. Some of the ultra hard alloys may require the use of a stone in place of the file, but I never had to mess with any of them.

SRH

I've also turned down percussion nipples the same way only I just used my power drill and it worked fine. You just have to be careful not to over tighten the nipple in the chuck. When I was done I blackened the nipples with cold blue.

Steve


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