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#551593 07/26/19 01:37 PM
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Sidelock
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HERE ARE TWO STOCKS, PARTS OF WHICH ARE GOOD AND SERVICEABLE. MY OBJECTIVE HERE IS TO JOIN THEM INTO ONE REALLY NICE STOCK. I THINK I HAVE THE NEEDED ANGLES FIGURED OUT AND CAN GET STRAIGHT FLAT CUTS USING A HAND MITRE BOX THAT WILL MATE WELL. WHAT I HAVEN'T FIGURED OUT YET IS HOW TO JOIN THEM; MAYBE MORTISE AND TENON, MAYBE HARDWOOD DOWELS, MAYBE ALL-THREAD. PROBABLY TITEBOND III, POSSIBLY EPOXY. ANY THOUGHTS WOULD BE APPRECIATED; I'M ONLY GOING TO GET ONE CHANCE AT THIS. I KNOW I WILL HAVETO EXPAND THE CHECKERING FIELD BUT I'LL DEAL WITH THAT LATER. THANKS, GIL








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Why not follow the top line of the checkering?

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I would practice cutting both pieces first. While your handsaw miter box may be fabulous, I find a I can get a much smoother cut with my Hitatchi compound miter saw than I can with the sharpest handsaw. Just my experience. Be sure you cut orthogonal to the centerline of the stock, otherwise you are going to induce some cast.


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I would use my table saw with a sled and cut out the break, then cut a matching angle on the donor stock, use couple of dowels, and glue it up with a slightly lighter colored epoxy. You would locate the donor on the cut so you could get the drop you want leaving wood to refinish. I use titebond when I build furniture but for some reason epoxy on guns.

bill

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I would go with epoxy, rather than Titebond, for this application. Specifically I would go with WEST system epoxy, and if you call their technical help phone #, they can tell you exactly which of their products you should use.

Mergus


Duckboats, decoys and double barrels...
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Mortise and tenon. Crossed chisels did an article in SS years ago, that was his method. I believe it is all about surface area contact; more is better.

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Id leave both sides of the cut a little over sized and creep up to the fit you want. I think most of the time might be spent jigging up reliable holding fixtures. Maybe, use your best strategies to minimize tear out since the butt Id figure is near finished dimensions. I think it would only be luck if you got two perfect cuts. I also think the joint would glare a little even if well done, maybe you can move it to well inside the checkering panels, as it appears expanding the checkering wouldnt look quite right based on your drawing. Best of luck with it.

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Sidelock
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The head of the receiver wood does not measure up to the butt piece. Going to look shitty.
JR


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The grain in the butt piece appears to settle down a bit when it gets into the area of the checkering. After the work is complete, the grain could be enhanced and matched. It is definitely doable.

Best,
Ted

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