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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,624 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,624 Likes: 13 |
[IMG]
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,600 Likes: 13
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,600 Likes: 13 |
Why not follow the top line of the checkering?
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,412 Likes: 313
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,703 Likes: 406
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,703 Likes: 406 |
I would practice cutting both pieces first. While your handsaw miter box may be fabulous, I find a I can get a much smoother cut with my Hitatchi compound miter saw than I can with the sharpest handsaw. Just my experience. Be sure you cut orthogonal to the centerline of the stock, otherwise you are going to induce some cast.
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
I would use my table saw with a sled and cut out the break, then cut a matching angle on the donor stock, use couple of dowels, and glue it up with a slightly lighter colored epoxy. You would locate the donor on the cut so you could get the drop you want leaving wood to refinish. I use titebond when I build furniture but for some reason epoxy on guns.
bill
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 175
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 175 |
I would go with epoxy, rather than Titebond, for this application. Specifically I would go with WEST system epoxy, and if you call their technical help phone #, they can tell you exactly which of their products you should use.
Mergus
Duckboats, decoys and double barrels...
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 278 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 278 Likes: 21 |
Mortise and tenon. Crossed chisels did an article in SS years ago, that was his method. I believe it is all about surface area contact; more is better.
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212 |
Id leave both sides of the cut a little over sized and creep up to the fit you want. I think most of the time might be spent jigging up reliable holding fixtures. Maybe, use your best strategies to minimize tear out since the butt Id figure is near finished dimensions. I think it would only be luck if you got two perfect cuts. I also think the joint would glare a little even if well done, maybe you can move it to well inside the checkering panels, as it appears expanding the checkering wouldnt look quite right based on your drawing. Best of luck with it.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,090 Likes: 334
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,090 Likes: 334 |
The head of the receiver wood does not measure up to the butt piece. Going to look shitty. JR
Be strong, be of good courage. God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,741 Likes: 743
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,741 Likes: 743 |
The grain in the butt piece appears to settle down a bit when it gets into the area of the checkering. After the work is complete, the grain could be enhanced and matched. It is definitely doable.
Best, Ted
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