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Sydney,

The Diggory formula calls for Carnuba with linseed as does Damascuss formula. It has to be heated to if I remember correctly 160 degrees F with other ingredients.

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Tom C Offline OP
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I've started to refinish the William Evans I mentioned. After stripping, I applied 3 coats of red oil (BLO and alkanet). I am now on my 5th coat of my slacum/tung oil combination. My base slacum consists of 16 ounces (473 ml) BLO, 25 ml turpentine, 10 grams dry carnuba wax and 10 ml of concentrated venice terpentine. For some reason, my first batch of this did not work out properly as it looked like the carnuba precipitated out and settled to the bottom of the container. The next batch, I heated longer and this one has been pretty stable for more than 6 weeks now.

My final finish product is 75% slacum mixed with 25% Minwax tung oil. I only make down about 20 ml at a time. This combination seemed to give me the sheen I was looking for, a reasonable drying time and a finish hardness that should provide adequate protection and ease of repair or refinish if needed.

Each morning, I add and rub in a very small amount of this final finish and let it sit for 30-45 minutes. Then I take a 1 square of cloth (old T shirt cut into pieces) and add a very small amount of the slacum mix to act as a lubricant and rub the stock and forend down. Then it hangs for the next 24 hours.

So far, so good. The red oil really brought the dark grain out. I'll let you know how it goes.

Any advice??

Dennis P - thanks for the offer. I will try to call you this week.


Tom C

�There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.�
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Hi when mixing the carnauba wax into the oil how hot is the oil??
Thanks Sydney

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I heated, like Tom, to well above 160. I do not know how high in F because the thermometer read only to160, but I cooked it for a good 25-30 minutes in a double boiler with a rolling water boil till I could not see any more Carnuba flakes in the mix. It does take a good 24-30 hours to dry per application. I added Japan dryer as per the recipe and Venice turpentine but not regular turpentine. I was thinking a making up another with Tung, rather than BLO, and doubling the Dryer to accelerate the application process and durability.

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Hi--I m having trouble locating Venice turpentine and wondering
what it adds to the product
using tung oil in place of BLO is interesting as i have
used tung oil on other projects
Please let me know about the tung oil mix
thanks Sydney

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I got mine from a vet supply. Here is a link to an art supply house. I'll defer to the others on describing what it adds to the finish.

https://www.dickblick.com/products/senne...kRoCkm8QAvD_BwE

Here's what the website says it adds for artists:
Add to oil paints, mediums and varnishes for an exquisite jewel-like quality and tough, enamel-like surface.

Derived from European larch trees, this resin has the consistency of honey and is offered in its pure, undiluted state. Dilute with 20% turpentine and use sparingly to a 5% maximum of the total paint mixture.

Last edited by Woodreaux; 04/01/20 11:30 AM.

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It can also be found in tractor/always supply stores. It is apparently used to coat horses hooves and protect from insects. Mine came via eBay from San Diego, larch resin, smells a little like pine turpentine. Ernie, aka Damascus, said in his posting it adds durability.

Last edited by susjwp; 04/01/20 02:54 PM.
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Tom C Offline OP
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Here's where I was able to find many of the products needed. https://woodfinishingenterprises.com/

The venice turpentine is a plasticizer. It makes the finish more flexible and less brittle.

I suggest making the slacum outside or in an open garage. It has a pretty strong odor when you are heating it. I heated it for about 45 minutes to a very slow boiler. I still get a very small amount of precipitate in the bottom of the jar but just shake it up before making down my small mixes.

I spoke to Dennis Potter yesterday and he was very helpful. He has much more experience than I do. He gave me a better understanding of rubbing out the finish using a small piece of cloth covering a small eraser and rubbing with rotten stone and slacum. I tried it today with very good results.


Tom C

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Tom,

Did the rubbing out enhance or reduce the gloss.

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Tom C Offline OP
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Susjwp - the rubbing out does dull the finish some. I am going to rub out with the small cloth square and eraser with rotten stone and finish material about every 5 coats. The others I will gently rub out with just a cloth and a very small amount of finishing material. I am trying to fill the pores with the thickened, partially dry finish material. I notice I get a little more gloss with just the cloth rub out and even more gloss if I don't rub out at all. I am trying to minimize the total buildup on the stock so the color comes through better.


Tom C

�There are some who can live without wild things and some who cannot.�
Aldo Leopold
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