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Joined: Aug 2018
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Steve

Thanks for the tip on Mountain Rose Herbs.

I just had my package of Alkanet Root powder delivered today.

Have you had more or less success in red oil with any particular liquid to make the Red Oil? Anyone elses experiences are welcome. I am not planning on using it for a couple of weeks but I want to get some oil brewing as quickly as possible.

Thanks again

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Shellac, which is made from the bodies of insects dissolved in alcohol, is a soft finish and has no durability to speak of and water spots easily. Poor gunstock finish for a gun intended for use. But it does look antiquey on old classics...
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: John Roberts
Shellac, which is made from the bodies of insects dissolved in alcohol, is a soft finish and has no durability to speak of and water spots easily. Poor gunstock finish for a gun intended for use. But it does look antiquey on old classics...
JR


It works pretty damn good as a filler coat before you spray catalyzed poly on top of it.

Best,
Ted

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Sidelock
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Builder, to answer your question why we use alkanet. Stains will color the wood but will not be absorbed as deeply into it.
when a repair needs to be done like touching up a scratch and the wood is sanded the stain will be sanded as well, leaving a light spot. Even when stain is re-applied to this spot it usually will not match the surrounding color and appears to be lighter. The red oil penetrates deep and can be sanded leaving the same tone.

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Thank you dblgnfix!


So many guns, so little time!
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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: Travis S
Steve

Thanks for the tip on Mountain Rose Herbs.

I just had my package of Alkanet Root powder delivered today.

Have you had more or less success in red oil with any particular liquid to make the Red Oil? Anyone elses experiences are welcome. I am not planning on using it for a couple of weeks but I want to get some oil brewing as quickly as possible.

Thanks again


i keep alkanet in two forms; first i have a 91* rubbing alcohol with dye which i use after whiskering to flood the surface, and i keep a portion of my mineral spirits colored with the dye. i use a variation on the phil pilkington method of oil finishing, which is based on combining about 1 part of tung oil with 2 parts of mineral spirits to promote absorption. heat the mixture till warm to the touch to decrease the viscosity and flood the surface (inletting as well as outer) until the wood will not absorb any additional. then begin the wet sanding process; this is a good rundown of the pilkington methodology; https://www.firearmsforum.com/firearms/article/3037

i don't follow through with the linseed oil part of this process, instead i prefer to finish off with multiple tight coats of a good hard wax - promotes water turning as well as sealing both wood and metal. and i haven't bought any of the later pilkington products. i started using his method many years ago, when he was in oklahoma and vending from his shop. but the system has worked well for me, and by using the dyed mineral spirits with the tung you can build up more color in a finish as desired.


"it's a poor sort of memory that only works backwards."
lewis carroll, Alice in Wonderland
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Many thanks Graybeard

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