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#570757 04/28/20 09:29 AM
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battle Offline OP
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I have a double that I would like to freshen up the wood opposed to a complete refinish. Has/can anyone post your experience on the best way to go about this?

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What type of finish does it currently have and what is its condition?


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My experience with these "freshenings" has been rather poor. They look just like what they are, a half-hearted effort that lasts about three foggy mornings. Either refinish or leave it alone.

But...
You can spiff up the wood with Birchwood-Casey Stock Sheen and Conditioner to remove grime, some Timberluxe Stain to enrich the color, then put on a light coat of Timberluxe No. 2. Be careful or you'll go too far...
JR


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Some guns present very well with a light once over. If the finish is an oil finish and the stock is in pretty good shape (ie no major repairs needed, not oil soaked or stained, etc) you can do wonders by pulling the stock and lightly sanding in a new finish. Cleaning up the checkering does wonders as well. This can be as easy as using a tooth brush and mild solvent to a gentle chasing recut to clean up diamonds and lines.
You start running into problems when you are dealing with synthetic finishes and damage. You canít hide missing wood, whether itís a chunk or a splinter very well doing a light once over. Some of the better stock fixers can, but your average Joe cannot. Usually these jobs require the full Monty.

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It is oil English oil finish. This is only for the wood.

Last edited by battle; 04/28/20 11:13 AM.
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Originally Posted By: LeFusil


Some guns present very well with a light once over. If the finish is an oil finish and the stock is in pretty good shape (ie no major repairs needed, not oil soaked or stained, etc) you can do wonders by pulling the stock and lightly sanding in a new finish. Cleaning up the checkering does wonders as well. This can be as easy as using a tooth brush and mild solvent to a gentle chasing recut to clean up diamonds and lines.
You start running into problems when you are dealing with synthetic finishes and damage. You canít hide missing wood, whether itís a chunk or a splinter very well doing a light once over. Some of the better stock fixers can, but your average Joe cannot. Usually these jobs require the full Monty.


This is what I had in mind. But wasn't sure if should soak the wood and remove all the finish.

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Originally Posted By: battle
Originally Posted By: LeFusil


Some guns present very well with a light once over. If the finish is an oil finish and the stock is in pretty good shape (ie no major repairs needed, not oil soaked or stained, etc) you can do wonders by pulling the stock and lightly sanding in a new finish. Cleaning up the checkering does wonders as well. This can be as easy as using a tooth brush and mild solvent to a gentle chasing recut to clean up diamonds and lines.
You start running into problems when you are dealing with synthetic finishes and damage. You canít hide missing wood, whether itís a chunk or a splinter very well doing a light once over. Some of the better stock fixers can, but your average Joe cannot. Usually these jobs require the full Monty.


This is what I had in mind. But wasn't sure if should soak the wood and remove all the finish.


Well, if your plan or intention is to soak the wood and remove all the finish...then youíre gonna have to refill all the pores and possibly re-stain, etc. Now youíre in full refinishing territory. The light freshen up is usually reserved for guns that just need a well blended top coat....you know, to clean up some dull patches or areas where finish was missing.

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I'd rather stay away from a acetone soak and complete refinish.

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Have you considered tung oil?

The Real Milk Paint Co. sells pure tung without any additives or varnish like the products labeled 'tung oil finish' have.

It does take a while to dry, but at least it eventually does dry unlike raw linssed.

Thinner is better, and most folks cut it with limonene.


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An old furniture refinish hack: use fine, fine bronze wool and terpentine--it will melt off the grime and just a bit of the finish, but still leave it all pretty much in place. Sort of like a different method of cutting the finish (car comparison) and in my experience a lighter treatment than even 1500 sandpaper. Then freshen up will a hand rubbed or cloth pad laid on topcoat. You will not have changed a whit dimensionally, either.


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