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Pretty neat trick building the duck boat, Jt. Looks a lot like a Banks boat.

SRH


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GLS,
The "Do It" moulds sold on ebay in many configurations for sinkers and decoy anchors include the strips style as well as various sizes of mushroom, and other shapes. I just bought a mushroom style mould from them.

I really like the idea of using a tool handle mould if I have one that works. That's genius.

Still looking for a source of decoy keel weights.


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Originally Posted By: Hal
I used to cut keels from sheet lead and cast anchors in an old adjustable wrench handle so it makes a hole for the line.


I'm still trying to figure out how the adjustable wrench handle "mould" makes a hole in the lead strip. I've moulded lots of round balls and decoy weights, but I'm drawing a blank on this. There's a hole in the end of the wrench handle, but that won't create a hole in the lead you pour into it, the lead will just run down into the hole in the handle.

What am I missing?

SRH


"With one foot in the grave ..........and one foot on the pedal, I was born a Rebel" T.P.
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Sorry. On most old adjustable wrenches there is a thinner area in the handle; there to reduce weight would be my guess. This is where the brand name appears, e.g., Crescent. Anyway, pour molten soft lead into that area with the wrench level. Plug the hanger hole with a dowel and remove it when lead cools. Do not use wheel weights as anchors will be brittle and hard to bend.

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Lots of great ideas! Two schools of decoy design...flat or round bottoms. I made mostly the latter and tried to duplicate factory Masons. They are much lighter and smaller so more per bag and no sharp edges; some say their flashier rolling action can be a plus. But many great hunters and carvers like the flat bottoms with generous wood keel, striving for stability. I made some flat bottom Buffleheads with scrap freezer cork. A dowel through the basswood head and into the pine bottom makes them very strong.

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Pictures Hal!

And not just of the portrait profiles. Lets see those bottoms too. Interesting.


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I admit I'm coming to this thread late....I've been carving for 27 years now, first with basswood, then brown cork and finally white cedar. My early season gun is a Citori and my late season gun is a Rem 1894 in 10 ga with 32" barrels.

With the time and effort I put into carving and touch up painting, its killing me to see someone advocate wrapping a strap weight around a decoy neck. Years ago I went to H style weights. Wrap the lines around the ears on the weight, give the line a half hitch to secure it to the weight and drop it into its own pocket in a bag.

Your kids/grandkids will thank you.

I wish I was a little more computer savvy so I could post picks of some of the decoys I've carved....

Mergus

google John Bourbon Jr and duck decoys to see some pics or the next time you are on Tilghman Island in Md, stop by the Tilghman Island Country Store to see some for sale.


Duckboats, decoys and double barrels...
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Mergus, if you send pictures by email to me, I'll be glad to post them for you. brent@iastate.edu. If they don't show up in a day, email me again. Somehow email has gone missing lately, but it's still 98% effective anyway.


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Originally Posted By: mergus

With the time and effort I put into carving and touch up painting, its killing me to see someone advocate wrapping a strap weight around a decoy neck.


Guilty. C'est la vie. Gil

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Working decoys get damaged in so many other ways. I used to repair annually and touch up the oil paint every few years.

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