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#586678 12/09/20 07:18 AM
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AZMike Offline OP
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I have been reading with interest the discussion about barrel damage (when on the subject). I have several SxS's that are pitted to varying degrees.

I have also been looking at a number of advanced epoxy products that have been developed for industry metal repairs, most have high temperature tolerance and are machinable.

A barrel could be "super cleaned" of all rust and oils etc. by electrolysis or other means then coated with a pore filling coat of epoxy.
The tubes could then be honed straight thus leaving the pores and pits filled. I figure plastic wads will pass over the repairs without damage.

I think I will try this sometime......

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Interested in hearing your results if you do give it a try. Although I'm not up on epoxy technology, I had the same thoughts a few years back, but didn't really pursue the idea to determine feasibility.


Cameron Hughes
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If I were to try this I would look closely at an industrial epoxy called Belzona. It is unbelievably strong and long lasting, can be machined, and is used in the repair of cracked engine blocks and many other "salvage" repairs to steel. One caveat, it's not inexpensive.

https://www.belzona.com/en/products/purpose/metal-repair.aspx

Good luck. SRH


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"Expensive"?? yup- Stan, in my experiences in welding and machining ferrous metals, the best products and techniques (TIG-Plasma) always are- ?? is- is the material cost of the filler rod-flux, whatever justified by the results you desire.??

I have one basic SMAW rod I use for welding both 300 and 400 Stainless steels, also stainless to fabrication grades of mild steel, - I use Lincoln 308-16ELC in the smaller dias; and also that rod as a bare filler rod for TIG (aluminum, that's a whole 'nother ball game, isn't it.?

Now as to this filler product you mentioned as being used on cracked engine blocks- does it work on aluminum blocks with lined cylinders, as well as on cast iron blocks?? Just curious, as those differing metallurgical items may require a slightly different filler material??

Anyway, Mae and I are so glad you have bounced back from your near brush with the Grimster- Christmas best to you, Jean and all the Hillis clan down in Deep Dixie-- RWTF

Last edited by Run With The Fox; 12/09/20 10:15 AM.

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Not sure about aluminum. The link to the website should take you to enough infomation to satisfy that question, but I think the answer is "yes".

Thanks for your concern, and Merry CHRISTmas from the Deep South.

SRH


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Another crAzy thread...

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jOe, don be ah grinch...


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Most epoxy breaks down at temperatures under 300 degrees F.
Even the best high temperature epoxies break down at around 600 degrees F. These temps are considerably less than hot powder gasses, and most pitting tends to occur back where powder gasses are hottest. Even though the duration of extremely high temp is very short, I'm quite certain the combination of temperature and pressure would quickly erode your thin epoxy veneer.

There's a reason gun makers use steel to make gun barrels. You are expecting epoxy to do something it was never intended or designed to do.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

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Keith, I agree it's asking epoxy to do something it was never designed to do, but since no money is riding on this discussion let's pursue it a bit for kicks and giggles.

Belzona 1511 will withstand a sustained temp of up to 392 degrees Fahrenheit. Even though the flame and gases reach much higher temps, it is only for a microsecond. That's the reason it takes repeated shots in a short time to heat up the metal.

Is it possible that the epoxy would never reach 392 itself?

And, is it not also true that the heat shielding tiles are held on the space shuttle with epoxy. They get glowing red on reentry.


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Is the goal to shoot or beat someone at a gun show? Turkey to treasure in one easy smear?

bill

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