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Joined: Mar 2019
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Sidelock
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I have a few break top projects, both single and sxs, that are rattle traps. I have seen videos of how the hook, rear of the barrels, and bolt require attention for repairs. Is there a sequence to inspect and or repair that should be followed to insure a complete repair is accomplished. And what gap measurements should an inspection include for barrels that are off-face or loose at the water table. Any other input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

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if lower value guns try some shim stock [feeler gage strips] wrapped around the hinge pin.....wrap the shim around a nail....to get it tightly round then snap it on the pin....that should do it....


gunut
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Some say a shim cut from a beer can works.

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Gunut/Joe-I appreciate the input for shimming the barrel hook to tighten the barrels.

As a gunsmith enthusiast would barrel movement from forward to back mean the barrels are off face (needing shimmed or rejoined) and movement up and down would be pertain to the lock-up or bite of the action? So the bite would need attention and if so how would this be done?

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About the only ways I know to repair a worn bolt is to either have a new bolt made and fitted or to weld up the old bolt and refit it. Shims just don't work on bolts.


If we feed our faith our fears will starve, if we feed our fears our faith will starve.
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Originally Posted by Joe Wood
About the only ways I know to repair a worn bolt is to either have a new bolt made and fitted or to weld up the old bolt and refit it. Shims just don't work on bolts.

Mr. Wood, I don't doubt what you posted, but I've always had my off face guns repaired by shimming or welding the hook. Is there any reason that should not work?...Geo

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If the bolt lug interface is worn enough you can have what you think is fine go back off face within only a few shots. I had a Husky hammer gun that was loose and fixed it twice working just on the hook. The third time I addressed the bolt lock in addition to that and it is still on face after 6 years and was my primary target gun 2 years and the kid I sold it to hasn't babied it. All the parts of the system need to be right to keep it tight and functioning as designed.

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Sidelock
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George, I was addressing a worn bolt, not a worn hook. Hooks I usually have had welded and refit. I have also used shims with mixed results.


If we feed our faith our fears will starve, if we feed our fears our faith will starve.
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Sometimes a good strip and clean will help with the bolt depending how well it was maintained

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Often a gun will go off face on the right barrel first, because it is typically shot so much more. Especially a gun that digests heavy hunting loads. I have had good results with shimming in a situation like that, where the bolting is still good. I often try first a tiny rectangle of HVAC aluminum tape. What I have seen measures .003", and has it's own adhesive on it to keep it in place. I put it on the hook. It won't last much over 150-200 shots before needing replacing, but will give an indication of how much may be needed to bring the gun back on face, and is quick and easy to replace. If you find that .003" is about right you can go to a more permanent shim, or even have the hook welded and refitted. Be aware that there is at least one well known doublegun 'smith who decries welding the hook. He has stated that in most situations the hinge pin should be replaced with an oversized one, then the hook refitted to it. A little research will show which 'smith that is, then you can decide whether you agree with him or not.


"With one foot in the grave ..........and one foot on the pedal, I was born a Rebel" T.P.
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