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Sidelock
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Hey guys,
So I’m not sure what’s going on, it’s a true oil finish that’s been knocked down flat, but for some reason I’m getting what looks like scratches when you touch it but you can rub them out just by wiping. It’s not in one area it the whole stock. What is going on? Is there anyway to correct this?
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Put a couple drops of Tru-Oil on your hands and rub it out again.
Mike

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Can't help with the finish though is sounds like there is an undercoat that the Tru Oil can't hang on to.

But what's up with that checkering? It looks really interesting. Any more pics?


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Can't help with the finish though is sounds like there is an undercoat that the Tru Oil can't hang on to.

But what's up with that checkering? It looks really interesting. Any more pics?


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Correct me if I'm wrong... I am assuming this is a recently applied Birchwood Casey Tru Oil finish.

If so, I'd like to know if the finish seems even a bit soft or tacky, and how long ago it was applied. I had something similar happen years ago with a GB Linspeed finish. I believe I got a bottle from a batch that probably did not have near enough dryer. I ended up rubbing it all off with thinner, and applying a different finish which hardened normally.

That was the last time I used Linspeed, and it has also been quite a while since I used Tru Oil too. There are better wood finishing products that also cost less per ounce. We have had several threads here discussing the merits and characteristics of various stock finishing products. I'm not saying that Tru Oil cannot give you a nice looking finish, but if it has failed, you might want to move on to something else.


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Agreed. By the pics I'd advise "just keep going".


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This can be a number of things but more than likely it is either oil in the woods surface before you applied your True Oil this does prevent the finishing oil from truly curing, or you have not left the first coat to dry and properly cure. As you are only at the beginning of re finishing I would be tempted to remove the finish that is on the stock with a solvent. Then let the solvent evaporate leave the stock over night then re apply the true Oil letting the first coat fully cure before applying any further coats. You could keep going and apply more and hope the dryers in the proceeding coats will improve matters though you can never be sure.


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Keith, yes the stock was stripped to bare wood, one coat of linseed oil then 4 coats of truoil dried, then knocked down once the pores were filled, one coat on top then knocked down to remove the “shine/glare” all this took about two weeks. No tackiness, or grippy feeling smooth as butter. I’ve done this process before, this was the first time I got these what I call scratches that you can just rub out with your finger. I used true oil as that is what the manufacturer suggested to use. I think Damascus is on to it with the linseed oil not setting before I applied the trueoil

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Hey Brent

Nothing special some call it the stupidest gun ever made, I love it, lightweight and totally customizable, I can fit it for me and five minutes later fit it to my son who shoots left handed. I will say they really pooched it with that built in pad on the comb, I do not like that at all.
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Last edited by RARiddell; 12/25/21 08:58 PM.
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Just skip the initial coat of plain Linseed oil.
That takes quite a while to dry.,,if ever.

TruOil is just a Linseed Oil based Varnish anyway. It has driers in it along with
(Likely) synthetic resins that make it a varnish rather than just an oil. so it has something to fill the surface pores

Personally I've never liked the stuff as it never dried well. I gave up on it decades ago. Linspeed also.
But for some reason others have good luck with them.
The stuff I had only dried in the orig containers.

I'd wipe the surface down with mineral spirits , let it dry a week , bloc sand it with 800 or 1000 grit to even it back up. Then go back to building up the finish with what ever you think will dry.

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