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#614300 04/27/22 09:48 PM
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am desperate for information. would like to hear from someone who has disassembled and reassembled the internals of a stevens 315 double barrel. i realize this shotgun is not a purdy, parker, or lc smith and have had no luck on other forums getting any useful information -- mostly snide remarks. this model has the striker type internals is not made like a 311 -- internally. would like to remove and replace the strikers and have never done this job. have done several internet searches and have not found no useful information on the 315 -- all the information is for a 311. was given very good information on thus page on my lefever nitro special information request and am hoping there i someone out there who has stevens 315 knowledge they are willing to share. thank you.

1574trap #614313 04/28/22 09:53 AM
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1574trap,
I suggest you go to the person in your area that blues most of the guns for the other gunsmiths. These people take down and reassemble more different guns than anyone else. An old gunsmith friend gave ne this advice many years ago and it has been helpful since.
Mike

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1574trap #614332 04/28/22 05:39 PM
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Last edited by skeettx; 04/28/22 05:48 PM.


USAF RET 1971-95
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1574trap #614368 04/29/22 10:39 AM
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The most difficult part of the striker fired Stevens actions is the striker/their coil springs and the striker 'guide'.

The coil springs can be let down by dry firing.
The stamped steel guide is held in place with a simple cross pin in the frame.
Removing the pin allows the guide w/the strikes and their springs to come back and out of the frame.
There is still considerable spring tension on the strikers even with them in the down/fired position. So the assembly can snap back easily enough and be taken out of the frame.
But sometimes the guide being a stamped part is less than precision fit and is still held by some force fit of the part against the inner walls of the frame.
Some tugging and pulling on the unpinned assembly will release it and back it will come and then out of the frame.

The real challenge comes when you have to reassemble.
The assembly is placed into position with springs and strikes ready to line up. But then that spring tension must be compressed to push the guide back into position again so to line up the guide with the frame and the cross pin reinstalled.
The factory likely had a fixture to easily do this.

It's been a long time since I had the pleasure of dis-assembling and re-assembling one. But IIRC I used a clamp on the rear face of the guide and the breech face of the action to pull the guide assembly into position. Then a slender punch to futher line up the holes in the frame & guide so the pin could be reinserted.

The sears and triggers are pivoting on simple cross pins.
Take those components out and enything else you can get at before the strikers and guide.

I don't recall any separate trigger spring(s). There is a spacer inbetw the triggers that rides on the same pivot pin. Watch for that when disassembling so it doen't get lost.
The sears do have a one piece spring to serve both sears. U shaped,,Early guns used a thin flat spring steel spring. Later guns a simple round music wire spring.

The top lever is the locking mech w/a lug on the lever that pivots into a slot on the top rib extension.
A coil spring behind the top lever spindle and attched to the underside of the top tang is the top lever tension and power. There's a square steel block that the spring sets against
about half way down the tang.
A simple rod follower from the top lever through the coil spring guides it. That follower extends through that steel block and out the back side. That also serves as the AutoSafe bar.
Open the lever and the rod exends to the rear and pushes the Safety back to 'safe'.

The Safety blocks only the triggers, not unusual.
Simple pivot linkage swings the arm over the top of the rear portion of both trigers to block movement.
Pins attach parts, punch them out to remove parts. They usually need a bit of straightening and 'unpeening' the head to replace them again.

The Cocking arm pivots in the frame not unlike the hammer models. Can't remember if it is held with cross pin or screws from the sides of the frame.
Most parts are stampings. Some may show peening to stretch their length or angle to adjust for functioning.

Not real complicated action. The stubborn part of reassembly is that striker guide with strikers&coil springs.
A clamp of some sort helps tremendously to reassemble.
Trying to horse it back in is very dissicult. Probably a 2 person job if you do it that way.
Don't be tempted to clip the springs just so the assembly goes back together easier.

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1574trap #614377 04/29/22 05:47 PM
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thank you for the replies. wanted to get some pointers about reassembly before working on these shotguns. think the strikers on one of my project shotguns have been assembled wrong /the strikers installed on the wrong side.

1574trap #614407 04/30/22 10:50 AM
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The strikers are dedicated Left and right and not interchangeable side to side.


It seems like the firing pin tip portion of the striker is purposely mfg'd (bent) slightly off center from the stiker body itself.

Maybe I'm not remembering things right, but that seems to be the way they were made.

If someone disassembles and see's the off center tip and straightens it believing they are doing a good thing, then the striker w/the now straightened tip will jam when reassembled.


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