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Joined: Feb 2012
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Originally Posted by Run With The Fox
Right now, the reticule is in"dead center"-- I will CAREFULLY dial down to dead stop the elevation knob,counting carefully the clicks- then again Carefully raise the dial back UP 1/2 the number of clicks it took to bottom it out RWTF

Fox, I think the Weaver scope you have is a late enough version that is has as Lyman used to call it a "PermaCenter" reticle that is always centered in the visual field. What I'm talking about it to get the erector tube which carries the reticle & on which the adjustment dials work as close as possible to the center of the scope before bore sighting. This way, when bore sighted using shims for elevation & the windage adjustment screws in the mounts you should have close to maximum internal adjustment for windage & elevation left in the scope.

To achieve this you need to move the internal adjustment (can be either windage or elevation) all the way to the max adjustment stop for either up or right & then all the way in the max adjustment stop in the opposite direction while counting clicks & divide the result by two. If you then crank in this number of clicks for both windage & elevation from the max adjustment stop you then should have the erector tube & reticule centered in the scope.

Now you want to bore sight using shims for elevation & the windage adjustment screws in the mount to get it as close as possible before using the internal adjustments before final zero.

A couple of points:

Shims may be an inelegant way of achieving a zero but they are much cheaper than having a custom base made & done properly will be stable & cosmetically acceptable. Brownells used to (& may still do) sell blued, drilled & shaped shim packs for Buehler & Redfield type bases. I still have some & they are .010" thick. Loctite the shim to the receiver bridge & the base once you have determined the shim (s) needed for the correct zero & Loctite the base screws. Blue Loctite holds well & isn't all that difficult to disassemble if you use properly fitting screw drivers.

It is not uncommon to need to use a shim (s) to get a scope properly mounted & in my experience the problem is usually in the rifle as opposed to the base & pre 64 M70 rifles are not exempt from this . I have a custom .280 Rem built on a 1950 era M70 that required a .020" shim under the rear Leupold Dual Dovetail base to get the rifle zeroed w/o using up most of the internal adjustment for elevation in the scope.

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I have found that it is the rifle 90% or ,ore of the time. I used to build a lot of custom rifles, and in the last decade built many .22 target rifles. Getting the scope on paper was the single biggest problem I always had. I use a one piece bench rest bench for testing, and simply hold on the bull, fire a round, recenter the gun on the bullet hole and while holding the gun down firmly, I move the reticle back to the bull, then shoot again. I seldom even fire a third shot. This is actually called the "Sighting in with 2 Shots" technique. I remember as a kid reading articles in Sports Afield and Outdoor Life on the subject.Before starting, I bore sight and adjust the reticle to the bull. If I can't get it adjusted, I don't even start shooting.

I have found over the years it is usually the gun barrell/reciever/sight base holes in misallignment. Occasionally it is a bad scope. It is occassional a damaged barrel, but I have only ever seen one bad base/ring. It was on a Ruger No.1 two or three years ago and I swapped 2 or 3 other bases with it and the one was always off. Incidentally, if you are using one of the pricier Leupolds. be careful about crakking them to the max or min. They work by friction and will stick either up or down and won't move at all, even when the knob is turning.

As to what to use for shims, Brownells used to sell them by the package. They came in 0.50 and 0.866 hole spacing (the standard) and a few thickness. They were made of blued spring steel and matched a standard scope base. I could never even tell they were in place. I suppose they may still sell them. I bought a supply 30 years ago and still using them.

If windage is the problem (which is about half the time something's wrong) then you will need to go to a Leupold style ring/base with windage adjustment. They are heavier and bulkier, but the easiest to adjust.

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Weaver Bases

54 & EARLY MOD. 70 W/SERIAL NO.
BELOW #66 350



48
(48048)

46
(48046)

Last edited by skeettx; 05/15/22 09:54 PM.

USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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Thanks Mr. Skeetx- no ils. of these bases--but the M54 and the early M70 rifles did not have the rear receiver ring drilled and tapped for a scope mount- why that is, or was, I do not know. Perhaps the answer is hidden in my copy of the Roger Rule "Bible" on the "Rifleman's Rifle"". RWTF

Last edited by Run With The Fox; 05/16/22 04:50 PM. Reason: mis-spelling

"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Simple way to center the reticle/crosshairs is to place the objective end of the scope against a mirror. Look into the scope and dial the windage and elevation until there is only one set of crosshairs.

Leupold windage adjustable mounts will fix a lot of problems. Leupold used to make a mount that did windage and elevation, I don't have the name handy right now.

Here's an old Balvar 8 that has no windage or elevation adjustments. I mounted it in a Leupold windage adjustable mount and shim for elevation, this one is very close so only used a piece of greased paper on the rear ring. It is accurate enough for me to make it to the final round of an egg shoot. I wanted to see if 50 yr old scope could still be competitive. We stopped on the way home from the competition to take a coyote with our comp. rifles.

[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

If you look closely, you can see the shim paper under the scope in the rear ring.

Last edited by oskar; 05/16/22 09:27 AM.

After the first shot the rest are just noise.
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Takes good close in vision, but I can just see it- but if you had not mentioned it, I would have not noticed- great shot with the deceased coyote
and it is always rewarding to hear from a brother varmint hunter-- range? bullet type and grain wt. cal and make of your rifle.. This past late Winter here in MI was a fairly good one for both fox and coyotes- I use the Sako .243Win with Leupold 4x12 Vari-X-111 and we have a game caller with the dying rabbit squeals- but both critters are smart--a real challenge indeed. RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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Savage Model 11, SSS Custom Comp. Trigger, XLR adjustable cheek piece, surprisingly a factory Tupperware stock hogged out for lots of barrel clearance and the action bedded. 22-250, 52gr Speer HP Varmint bullet. Foxpro CS-24 with bird sound nailed it at 20 yards in thick sage. Being a FFP the Balvar crosshair are quite fine at 2.5x but it was late afternoon and the light was good, it wouldn't be my ideal scope for low light or forest work. My Model 70 222 Rem had a Meopta 1.5-6x40mm with a German#1 for early mornings and in the woods. I have a couple other rifles with 1.5-6x40/42mm of various makes with illuminated dots and heavy duplexes that I like also..

Model 70 222 Rem with Meopta. I put it in a more modern stock that I could cut the LOP with out ruining the original wood stock.
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

with both stocks.
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

I sold it to another coyoter hunter for his son so he could use the second stock as he grew it went with a B&L 4200 1.5-6x40mm and B&L4200 2,5-10x40mm

Last edited by oskar; 05/16/22 11:42 AM.

After the first shot the rest are just noise.
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You are indeed, a gent I'd like to shoot/hunt varmints with anytime. So-in'law and yours truly are thinking about a August trip to SD for praitie dawgs-- but gasoline costs, motels ad meals, and ammo costs are of some concern to us. Would sure like to try it if possible. RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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There are some very nice state campgrounds in SD. We used to stay in one East of Winner right on the Missouri River. I've often thought about taking my boat and coyote hunt the shore of the Missouri. My van is set up with a bunk, solar power and a built in furnace so I can camp anywhere and not even have to drive from the motel to hunt, I stay at boat ramps, BLM, National Forest camp grounds. Where ever. I even have it set up for a second bunk and we bring a cook tent then.

NE MT for pheasant
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Just to keep this DG oriented. Success there.
[Linked Image from imagizer.imageshack.com]

Last edited by oskar; 05/16/22 01:20 PM.

After the first shot the rest are just noise.
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Nice pair of roosters, man's best friend, fine double- the stuff "dreams are made of" I've hunting or pheasant and ducks along the Big Horn River in past Octobers- a "cast and blast" float trip from the Yellowtail dam downstream-flew into Billings and had a week of great fly fishing and wing shooting. NE MT is indeed, a great place to hunt native birds, nothing against the expensive lodges in lower SD-- but NE Montana would be great choice yet today. And indeed, we are most fortunate that Dave Weber has set up this forum so that doublegun shooters and hunters can also discuss their other "passions" in the gun and shooting world--my passion has always been pre-WW2 Winchesters--so be it. RWTF


"The field is the touchstone of the man"..
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