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Joined: Feb 2006
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Sidelock
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Stan, it seems without using the heat it took longer to take the dent out. Using the heat then putting the plug in and tapping the end of the rod the dents seem to come out and most times do not have to use the hammer.
Here are a few pictures of a 10 g. L.C. Smith.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[img]https://i.imgur.com/Ibr3LUB.jpg?1[/img]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Barrel reblued and etched.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/IzoKhaD.jpg?1[/img]


David


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I cant figure out why the other pictures were not copied but click on them and they will open


David


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Thanks, David. Nothing like a good picture. If I ever have the need to remove another dent I will try some heat from a propane torch. Anything that would speed the process, and do no harm at the same time, would be beneficial. I assume you oil the plug lightly to help prevent any galling of the barrel?


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For David

Barrel reblued and etched.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Remove the ?1 from the string

Last edited by skeettx; 11/24/22 01:42 AM.


USAF RET 1971-95
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Sidelock
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Stan, I do not put any oil on the plug. The only oil that is there is a light coat from storage. On the 10 ga. the plug was .773 and the bores were .750. I have made aluminum plugs for 10, 12, and 16 gauges as a go/no go fit.
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
These naturally are for 12 ga. The smallest at .724 is for some 12 gauge L.C. Smith hammer guns that have a smaller bore. Have never run across an L.C. Smith hammerless that small in diameter.

Thanks Mike, I use Imgur as a photo hosting site and when I want to post a picture I click on BBCode and click on copy. Most times it works great.

Also wanted to mention Happy Thanksgiving to all.

Last edited by David Williamson; 11/24/22 08:18 AM.

David


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For those that don't have the equipment to make their own plugs you can buy "GAGE PIN SETS" that can cover a range of bore IDs. I have two sets: .501" to .625" and .626" to .750" (Increments in .0001"). These will cover 28 thru 12 gauge barrels. Cost when I purchased was about $70 a set shipped.
Bob Jurewicz

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Bob, they are good for getting bore diameters, not good for use as plugs for removing dents because they have no beveled leading edge and could score the barrel. They are made of hardened steel.
Plus I think you meant to put .001 instead of .0001. They would have to be centerless ground for that tolerance and it would cost a lot more.

Jent Mitchell posts on here sometimes and he bought set and took them to a machine shop to have a level put on them, cost a lot more than the plugs.

Last edited by David Williamson; 11/24/22 01:47 PM.

David


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Should have mentioned that I do bevel the edges.
Bob Jurewucz

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I have a couple sets of pin or plug gages that were made with a slight bevel, so they can be used for barrel dent removal work without causing further damage to the bore. They are also .501" to .625" and .626" to .750". However, as David notes, many sets are not beveled, and would need to be altered for use as dent removal plugs.

Although I've never tried using heat to aid in barrel dent removal, I can believe it would work. I clearly recall learning about how steel properties can change significantly with minor heating when I first started working at a steel mill. I was working on a Slitter, which was used to slit roughly 60" wide coils of flat rolled steel weighing upwards of 20 tons into narrow strips of various widths. One order we had for a few thousand tons was some high carbon high alloy steel that was very hard and springy. It was during a severe cold spell when outdoor temperatures were around zero degrees F, and it wasn't much warmer inside the mill. This particular steel alloy was giving us fits because it was chipping on the slit edges, creating quality issues, and the scrap kept breaking like an icicle. In fact, I still have a small hairless scar on my right shin from the scrap strip breaking and springing back, and slicing into my leg.

Apparently, they had this problem in the past, because it was decided to fire up the gas burners under a large insulated tank of water, and heat it to near boiling. When it was hot, the overhead crane would set ice cold coils into the hot water and let them simmer for hours. After the steel was heated by perhaps 150 degrees or so, it behaved like a different animal, and ran through the Slitter much better and easier. Of course, this extra heating step was troublesome and consumed a lot more time, so we were happy to finally finish that order. But it taught me that steel properties can change quite a bit at temperatures far lower than we typically associate with annealing, heat treating, or tempering.

On the other hand, there was another alloy we made that was called helmet stock or grenade steel. It had been used to make Army helmets before they changed to Kevlar. It was also used to make cluster bombs, and a pattern was rolled into it by Defense contractors to help it fragment into small pieces of shrapnel when the bombs or grenades detonated. That stuff was extremely brittle and would sometimes shatter even when it was still glowing red hot as it was being coiled up coming off of the Hot Mill. The many holes in the sheet metal walls at the Downcoiler end of the building told you that it wasn't a safe place to be when we were running grenade steel.


A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.

1 member likes this: Stanton Hillis
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Boxlock
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Hi Guys,
Just to inform you the manufacturer of the Original English Hydraulic Dent Raiser is:-
Desman Engineering Ltd,
Burma Road,
Blidworth Industrial Park.
Blidworth,
Nottinghamshire.
NG21 0RT.
United Kingdom.
https://www.desman-engineering.com/
Phone
Simon 01623 499962 or Mark 01623 499968
email, Sales@desman-engineering.co.uk
Simon@desman-engineering.co.uk
Mark@desman-engineering.co.uk
Any questions please don't hesitate to contact us.
Regards

1 member likes this: Stanton Hillis
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