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#622425 11/21/22 10:26 AM
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I have been doing some experimenting lately with relaying ribs and would welcome some input. I always use four clamps (1/4" aluminum frames with brass screws) for most of the work and add nails with round heads if needed. I have tried (in various combinations) solder no doubt designed for plumbing, lead-free solder, low-temp solder from Brownells (my favorite), and probably some others. Several different fluxes as well but consistency of results is paramount and I have done my best work with a water-based paste flux for plumbing. I had some major frustrations in my latest attempt (an English side by side HG--nothing special) but finally got it right. I would reallylike to hear suggestions. Thanks! Gil

Last edited by gil russell; 11/21/22 12:30 PM. Reason: info added

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gil russel,
I don't do that work, but here is some poorly informed advice anyway. If you can "jury rig" some type of oven you will likely have more harmonious results. Soft iron tie wire is your friend. When cleaning the solder residue, be very careful to avoid making the barrel too thin next to the ribs.
Mike

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Gil, search back through old posts by Chuck Heald (Chuck H). He once posted a thread on how he did it, with photos. Maybe he will see this and join the discussion. Chuck's a sharp guy.


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Gil, I use 50-50 solder to tin and to relay. I use an acid flux to tin then clean with hot water,soap and baking soda. When I relay I use rosin flux.

Silver bearing solder flows at a temperature too close to the rosin burn temp and it stays bright forever.

Give me a call if you have further questions.

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I tin everthing with a very large soldering iron and acid flux and a natural fiber brush, then clean with dish washing liquid mixed with water tie barrels and ribs together with wire and flooring nails every two or three inches add rosin flux keep heat source moving add solder as necessary.pure tin is more trouble then 50/50 solder

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Assuming there is no collector value to the gun, going the ribless road, as in the Alex Martin SXS, is a possibiity. And if the ribless gap bothers a carbon fiber snap in top rib can be contrived.

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As stated by Mark above complete tinning of the barrels and the top/bottom rib is of utmost importance. I am going to share with you one of the "secrets" of the gun trade in how to make sure that the tinning is absolutely complete prior to the soldering of the ribs to the barrels. The use of a product commonly called "tinning butter" used by the old masters of the auto body repair prior using lead (prior to plastic body filler) is the secret. Tinning butter is available in different combination of lead and acid and even 100% tin and acid. Using it on barrels and ribs THE ACID RESIDUE MUST BE WASHED 100% AWAY AND NEUTRALIZED WITH BAKING SODA AND WATER and you need to do this several times prior to relaying the ribs to the barrels using lead/tin solder and pine rosin flux. I purchase pine rosin from Diamond Forest Products in Georgia http://www.diamondgforestproducts.com/~shop/rosin/1-lb-powdered-pine-gum-rosin/186879/

I use tinning butter "Tin EZY' from Johnson Mfg Co. in Princeton, Iowa ---telephone them and they will ship it to you---- http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/tinning.htm

Do not use acid tinning butter for spot the repair of ribs. The ribs must be completely removed in using tinning butter as all acid MUST BE REMOVED before using traditional solder and pine rosin flux.

Here is a video of a master auto body craftsman using tinning butter so that you can see how it is applied

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I use 50-50 solder and rosin flux to both tin and join the ribs. The key is not getting it too hot, once you burn rosin flux you have to polish back to brite steel. I use a medium sized iron combined with an acetylene(not oxy acet) plumbers torch. The torch heats the base metal just enough that the iron will keep things wet on the base metal. It takes some practice to get it down but it is not hard. On the ribs themselves I use just the iron, no torch.


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Bushveld.my brother used to do that kind of body work

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I use a similar 50-50 paste but unfortunately it is no longer available.

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