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Joined: Apr 2003
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Dustin, The sear spring was binding on one of the H we fooled with yesterday remember? The top part was catching the sear and acting as a spring in reverse until I slid it forward. Maybe I only paid attention when we took your gun apart first although Im sure the H had the springs in that way too.

Jack, We were going to put the ejector hammer in from one of my beater GE guns but found that the hook held the ejector too long and nothing would function properly. Also tried to change out Dustins safety button but it was different as well. Ill bet the gunsmiths loved the new fangled repeaters just for the interchangeablity of parts!
Ross






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Chris's observation is the correct one. If the springs are upside down, they will be too far forward and will exert less pressure on the sear.

I know most of the conversation has focussed on the sear springs, but doesn't it look like the sear engagement on the left hammer is "squared" off more than it should be? This would reduce the trigger pressure required to trip the sear. Might be just the lighting, but it looks that way to me.

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Sharp eye, Roy. Wouldn't get any dwell or overdraw on that one; the sear would just slide off rather than snapping free.

jack

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Not relevant to original post, but these pictures are so good; Note in the pic of NE H with hammers dropped. Pic is nearly square across face & no firing pins protrude. The main springs have bottomed out against there pocket in the frame & hammer is now "Loose". Inertia carries it on to fire the primer, but it is not held locked into the indent. Not really rebounding, but serves virtually the same purpose as far as opening the gun is concerned. Note also the distance the sear engages the hammer from it's axle. Extremely good leverage here. Since purchasing my first Lefever some 40 yrs ago I have never ceased to be amazed by the innovativeness of the Lefever design.
As to the reversed springs moving them back to their proper position should definitely put them under more compression, as the V gets wider the farther it goes from the bend, thus the more it is squezzed together.


Miller/TN
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Will putting the sear springs in correctly, and thus increasing the pressure, make the trigger pull greater? I mean, one would have to overcome the spring pressures as well as the sear release, right? Jake


R. Craig Clark
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Properly positioned springs will infact make the sear engagement better and likely help correct the light trigger pull you described.

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Originally Posted By: 2-piper
Not relevant to original post, but these pictures are so good; Note in the pic of NE H with hammers dropped. Pic is nearly square across face & no firing pins protrude. The main springs have bottomed out against there pocket in the frame & hammer is now "Loose". Inertia carries it on to fire the primer, but it is not held locked into the indent. Not really rebounding, but serves virtually the same purpose as far as opening the gun is concerned. Note also the distance the sear engages the hammer from it's axle. Extremely good leverage here. Since purchasing my first Lefever some 40 yrs ago I have never ceased to be amazed by the innovativeness of the Lefever design.


Not to take anything away from the Lefever design but in the pics of the NE H, the internals may be square to the eye but it looks to me that the breech face is canted back. In the picture of the left side with the hammer dropped I can see the end of the pin.

Rob


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That spring is upside down according to pictures the v slides back into that notch on top of the sear, however why would someone grind the notch on the hammer down to to make it shoot like a match rifle? Sounds to me that a previous owner didn't like the trigger pull and started hacking away at it, but unintentionally made it that light.
All the best

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Rob;
I would guess the CL of the lens was a little to the rear of the breech face. You can see just a nub of the firing pin. It does not however have it's full protrusion as if the hammer were actually resting upon it under spring tension. Early models had two screws in the frame bottom which set the point where the spring stopped. Later ones are not adjustable, but all I have dealt with allowed the pins to come flush or just beyond. "NONE" have ever been plagued with firing pin drag upon opening.


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Originally Posted By: 2-piper
Rob;
... Early models had two screws in the frame bottom which set the point where the spring stopped. Later ones are not adjustable, but all I have dealt with allowed the pins to come flush or just beyond. "NONE" have ever been plagued with firing pin drag upon opening.


Wish I could say that about some of my Ithacas.

Rob


My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.
- Errol Flynn
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