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Joined: Jan 2004
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FOX SXS Offline OP
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Testing for "barrel ringing" has been mentioned as a method to identify loose ribs/solder integrity.

I would appreciate knowing the proper way to do this test.

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Nothing complicated about it, just remove the bbls. from the gun and then holding them suspended from the lump with your index finger then give them a light tap along the outer portion of one of the tubes with something like a pocket pen; if the bbls are sound they will 'ring'.

note: you may find it easier to suspend the bbls from a closed loop of nylon cord like that used for starter rope for small engines. You do not want to use something that might break or that would mark the lump. A small tied off loop of 6~10" diameter is quite sufficient for the purpose and will pack easily for the average gun show isle foray or gun shop visit.

I wish to say that it was Dr. Oscar Gaddy who first mentiomed the methodology here on the board, but may be mistaken on that point. It does work!

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If the barrels ring, I would then examine the ribs closely checking for pin holes along the joint. I have a set of barrels on a gun that ring like a bell, but they also have a couple holes in the solder joint on the underrib in front of the chambers.

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Some have said that 'some barrels just don't ring, but are solid'. I used to think they were right. Lately, I have experienced the relatively short ring (not thud) and thought that's just the way they are, but are solid from visual exam. Wrong! The ribs were working loose but not detectable, visually yet. After refinishing, they showed. Then, I re-layed the ribs and the barrels ring like church bells. So, I don't buy the 'some just don't ring, but are solid' line. Something's going on in there, even if it won't show for years.

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I have found that on some barrels the ejectors/extractors damp out the vibrations a bit. That is particularly true if the rods have a little play in them.

If a barrel set seems to have a short ring try hanging them from the ejectors themselves (a cord helps) and you may find that they ring like mad.

Jeff


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I too, have experienced a kind of goofy, confusing ring from loose extractors/ejectors and also from a sling swivel. TW's suggestion is the way I do it but Jeff's idea is an excellent suggestion. If a swivel is a distraction, tie it or tape it down.
I'm also 100% in Chuck's school on ring is good, no ring is not acceptable. The ring should have a fairly long duration, as well.


> Jim Legg <

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I second eeb's comment about close examination for pin holes, especially if the barrels have been refinished. I have a friend who is currently having to deal with corrosion under the rib due to a pin hole. The barrels ring beautifully but acid did enter underneath and is currently doing its mischief out of sight.


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Thanks all for the inputs on Barrel Ringing testing techniques.

As always, I appreciate your time and thoughts.

Joe B

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TW's method is pretty much the way I do it with my thumb lightly on the extractors/ejectors to dampen any vibration there, but I tap on the rib itself. If the rib is loose, you'll get a dull click along with the ring indicating a separated rib at that point. Barrels held & ringing like a church bell will undoubtedly astound and amaze many a potential buyer or owner. But in reality it cannot tell you anything but the most generously loose rib. It's a real rarity that there isn't at least some pinhole(s) or small loose section somewhere along those lengths of solder joint. I can recall very very few over the years that didn't 'leak' while refinishing and that includes all makes and qualities.

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Jeff's thoughts and recommendations on the extractor/ejectors is now on my alternate test list.


Kutter, I have only finished a few and have run across one, in that few, that leaked. So, you must be right about a high number of them having leaks. As such, I pressure/leak checked my ribs after re-laying them on that Parker. I recommend this as SOP after re-laying.

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