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Question about 16/20 Gauge Mates... are premium shells a really a must use - AA's or STS's?
Craig


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Here's the "grind"...they raise up and down with the extractors the ground spots allows you to easily remove the spent hull without taking the gauge mates out of the gun.

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I have 10 to 12 gold gauge-mates and they work very well with any type of shell even though the directions suggest using AA or STS. I have not had a Federal top gun or Rem Gun Club stick.

I want to purchase a 16 to 20 converter. Do I understand from your picture that the silver gauge-mate rim rides on the extractor pulling it up?

The ground section allows you to grab the hull with your fingernail and pull it out?

Does it make any difference where you grind the silver gaugemate?

Any problem with the silver gauge-mates with promo type shells?


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For some reason I had thought the grind would be where the extractor/ejector would be, but it looks like you are just making a space to pluck the hulls out
Thanks for posting the photo Joe.


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Originally Posted By: builder
I have 10 to 12 gold gauge-mates and they work very well with any type of shell even though the directions suggest using AA or STS. I have not had a Federal top gun or Rem Gun Club stick.

I want to purchase a 16 to 20 converter. Do I understand from your picture that the silver gauge-mate rim rides on the extractor pulling it up?

The ground section allows you to grab the hull with your fingernail and pull it out?

Does it make any difference where you grind the silver gaugemate?

Any problem with the silver gauge-mates with promo type shells?


The silvers are probably stronger than the golds because of no split and should even help vintage guns with chamber pressure. I have fired Rem Express 20ga shells in my 12 with no problem. I haven't ground mine yet but probably will, should be able to do it in any spot. However, you may get a little blow-by gas in that spot.

Last edited by Patriot USA; 08/09/09 09:13 PM.

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I just went and put a 3" 20ga turkey load in my 12 to 20 silver and had atleast a 1/8" to spare. I wouldn't be afraid to fire it but might have a hard time getting the empty out. I think the only reason they tell you to use target loads is they will drop right out of the sleeve. The time I fired the Rem Ex. 20, it also just dropped out of the sleeve ok probably because the silver has no slit.


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I have a pair of "Lil Skeeters" 10-12. I use them all the time with 12 bore target loads, homegrown, in my Lefever 10. They are a little slow in that that they have to removed and the 12 cases poked out, but I aint in much of a hurry anymore. I did shoot a couple of 3" Hevishot loads through a Zabala 10 I had for a short time. Had to beat the emptys out with a hammer and socket over a vise. That was too slow, even for me...

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The slits in the gauge mates are only in the gauges that are "close in size". In the picture I posted the one in the middle is a 12ga. to 20ga. and they will fall out of the gun if you aren't careful.

The slit 10ga. to 12ga. works better because they can be sprung to fit the chamber a little tighter. I shoot my 10ga. about every week...truthfully I can't even tell they are in the gun.

With the exception of dove...When I hunt with my 10 I shoot 10ga. ammo.

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Do not fire "hard" shot loads of sub gauges. The slits in the wad petals will open to the point you will be risking scratching or worse of bores. Some wads have overlapping petals, should be good with those but you really need to know what your sending down the tubes.

Please don't think that shooting sub gauges is doing your gun any favors other than from a recoil point. It can help a LOT in other ways....you do need to think it through for each gun and load though.

Best,
Mark




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Thanks 775. That's what I was wondering, if the petals would open. I thought I saw shot cups for steel that had no slits on Ballistic Products site for reloading, but I didn't know if any loaded shells had them like from Win. or Rem. etc.


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