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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038 |
This Superior grade 12ga. O/U, functions great when it is cold. Nice and tight and opens firmly. But, by the time I get to the 10th shot at trap, the action seems to have swelled and getting the gun to break open is tough, like breaking it over your knee. It has to be a simple job to stone or polish the action someplace. I have had the gun down many times to clean and lubricate. Nothing seems apparent to me. Any ideas?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,064
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,064 |
Just keep shooting it as is; it just needs breaking in --- the mark of all superior guns. Chopperlump
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983 |
The usual cause of excessive tightness on this type of gun is that the forend is too tight against the frame.(very common with Citoris) To test this, remove the forend and open the gun. If it opens easily with the forend removed, removing a little metal from the rear of the forend lug. Try a little at a time and quit when it feels to suit you. I don't think waiting to break it in is a good idea. We might not live long enough and/or the forend iron or the frame might actually gall, from being so tight.
> Jim Legg <
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038 |
Rear of the forward lug.....Trying not to make a mistake here. We are talking about the lugs, that are on the bottom of the barrel, where they engage the receiver. So with the barrels off, and the lugs pointed at your belly and the muzzles to the left, there is a gap, between the rear lug nearest the breech and the front lug which is nearest toward the muzzle. The back side of this front lug, which is facing the lug that is nearest to the breech, is the one that needs "dressing". I certainly do not what to misunderstand this. If that is the case, which would be good. I am probably only looking at virtually just polishing this area.
With the forearm removed, of course the gun opens very nicely with no side play at all.
Do I have my question clear? I don't want to screw up and mess up the wrong place.
Thanks for the guidance!
Dave Katt
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Jim's talking about the aft face of the forend lug. There is only one. I dressed the lug on a 32" 425 a few yrs. ago based on that advice. Your mention of polishing (lightly stoning) is exactly what I did. The gun was easier to open afterwards without approaching the falling-down-barrels condition of a worn target gun. I understand why you would want to avoid overcorrecting.
jack
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 466
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 466 |
Had a SXS doing that; a shooting instructor/smith noticed it; took the gun; saw the stress marks on the iron that meets the receiver knuckle. Took his file and made a couple swipes on the rear of the lug that the forearm locks onto that is attached to the barrels. Just to be clear. You don't want to file the wrong thing. Go slow.
Don't sacrifice the future on the altar of today
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,983 |
One more small tip: To make it easier to see where to remove some steel, color the rear side of the lug with a felt marker, reassemble and the shiny area will be where the lug is putting the load on the inside of the forend iron. This will not affect the gun being "on-face". The too-tight forend iron to frame is actually pulling the barrels away from the standing breech.
> Jim Legg <
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