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Joined: Dec 2001
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gunut Offline OP
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I am blueing a set of SXS barrels with Laurel Mountain Forge barrel brown....I have done this B4 with nice results...

But this time Im having trouble?? I give the barrels about eight coats [4-6 hours per rust] with 5 minute boiling [distilled water changed every 2 boilings] and carding in between, and the barrels look great....wash them in washing soda, oil up with water displacing oil...and each time I rubbed the barrels with a clean oily rag more and more blue rubbed off; lite spots started to appear ....so I degrease the barrels again [carb cleaner] and put on 6 more coats....the barrels look great again, wash, oil...but same thing happens again when I wipe them with a clean oily rag......Im stumped..

Only thing different from the last time I rust blued a set of barrels is the boiling tank [made of welded sheet metal] is a little rusty...could the slightly rusty tank be doing something to the distilled water....could this be the problem...??...any help gratefully accepted..


gunut
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If the rust is not penetrating (coming off), it sounds like your barrels were not clean enough (oil free) prior to your rusting process.....after your 320 or etching process did you clean real good with acetone and dry before the boiling--the type of carb cleaner could also be a problem, some leave a residue.....?.....I always clean with acetone......which removes any and all oil.......could also be weeping impurities out the weep holes in the bottom rib...?...Bottom line is 'clean and etched' is the problem if the rust blue/brown is wiping off with oil....IMO.......

Best of Luck.....


Doug



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I would recommend brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner. Many carb cleaners leave a residue behind.


The clearest way into the universe is through a forest wilderness.
-John Muir



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I would use TSP. (trisodium phosphate) I also agree that it could be that they were not oil free to start with also do not handle hot or warm barrels with rubber or laytex gloves. They give off an oil.

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Rusty tank is not the problem. Mine looks like hell too.

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If as everyone is saying the barrels havn't been degreased well enough. I don't think after 8 coats the first time and then 6 again the next, that your barrels will come out looking great. If they arn't properly cleaned and degreased i can never get a consistent blue. You should know right away, that something isn't right.

That said, i don't have a clue to why your blue is rubbing off.

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gunut Offline OP
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Laurel Mountain Forge says right in the instructions that oil on the barrels is no problem...and that you can handle the barrels bare handed between brownings...I degrease them any how and wear cotton gloves when handling the barrels....in fact the instructions say to sand the barrels wipe them off to remove sanding dust and apply rusting solution...no degreasing necessary.
I am much more carefull than that in my handling....
I blued two sets of sterlingworth barrels and a model 12 winchester solid rib barrel useing the same method last year and they all turned out fine ...


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The way I see it, if you have any trace oil, anywhere, there might be a problem, regardless of what Laurel Mtn. says. I don't use acetone, lacquer thinner or other petro chemicals for final degreasing, if there's any oil present you're just thinning it. Hot water and dish soap first (2x), hot rinse. Boil in TSP solution, boiling water rinse (2x). Final degrease with undiluted Simple Green, boiling water again 2x. Might be overkill, but I've never had a problem from residual oils with this method. They way I see it, there's no such thing as too clean. Clean, oil free cotton gloves are a must.

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I wonder if it is the steel itself that is not taking the blueing? What make gun are they from? It seems to me that if oil was present somewhere in the boil that your barrels would not come out looking as good as you say. Have you let the barrels stand and "cure" for a while after the last boil?

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Laurel Mountain has a detergent in it to help degrease,but I would not count on it. The carb cleaner is a light hydrocarbon and leaves some residue. I always degrease with hot water and a detergent on a rught sponge and follow up with a toothbrush and
comet type cleaner.I believe the problem is a light hydrocarbon
layer not allowing sufficient penetration of the blueing soln.

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