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Joined: Mar 2002
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Sorry for the teenage retort on slacum, guys. There are just so many superior products out there today that provide a classic "piano" finish but are superior in wear and water resistance to slacum. Yes, it does require time and patience to apply properly, but that doesn't make it good. Hell, Tru-Oil is better than slacum. One product that comes from the Land of Purdey that I particularly like and is far better than slacum is CCL's Conditioning Oil. Beautiful stuff.

I've never been remotely close to Purdey, but I bet they use something better these days and call it slacum.
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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John,
An oil finish is exactly that! An oil finish.
Tru-oil uses a plasticising agent as do many modern finishes.
Slacum is a Purdey tradename for a modified linseed oil finish developed by Harry Lawrence one of Purdey's employees.
CCL oil is a modified linseed oil as used in the Birmingham guntrade (W C Scott) for ages.
The Italian mass producers use varnishes, polyurethane sprayed on finishes but when they are commissioned for a 'best' oil finish, they lovingly apply linseed oil and most trade makers including H&H and Purdey use 'Trade Secrets' stock oil although I do know that many stockers still have their favourite brews.

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Thanks Salopian, you are quite correct on all points. My problem with slacum is the wax component; I think it weakens the molecular chain somewhat and "softens" the end result, compared to these other product, which have no wax component, just linseed and modified polymers, that cure harder and are more durable. What say ye?
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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John,
Spot on with your observations.
Originally beeswax was used, then carnuaba, and now the wax is left out completely.
The wax does (did) give a softer finish and added the satin like lustre in appearance, but I do know that many customers demanded a harder, impervious to knocks finish, something akin to varnish.
Note to all:- If you apply slacum a little but often you will build up a fabulous high gloss piano type finish.
The secret is applying a very small amount and spreading it out and rubbing it into the wood.An oil finish should be in the wood, not on it.

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Sal,
Would it really be slacum without the wax component? I would also go a little further and say an oil finish should be in the wood AND on it also if you want some gloss, because you do have to have what is known as a "dry film thickness" on the wood to achieve that glossy result.
JR


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God bless America, long live the Republic.
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I see that there is a Napier gun stock oil for sale and a video of applying it. Is this similar to Slacum oil? Does it do a good job? Is the video worth buying?

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Salopian, are you saying that you are now using slacum
oil that is just linseed,turpentine,and a drier, without wax
of any kind?

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Originally Posted By: John Roberts
Sal,
Would it really be slacum without the wax component? I would also go a little further and say an oil finish should be in the wood AND on it also if you want some gloss, because you do have to have what is known as a "dry film thickness" on the wood to achieve that glossy result.
JR


Also known as the "color coat." Take the finish back to the wood and apply a very thin final coat.

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I happened to be re-reading this post and thought that I
would try again. Can someone tell me what is in slacum if you
mix it without any wax of any kind?. I have tryed mixes with
nothing but traditional heat processed linseed, turpentine, and a little dryer. They do look good, but don't seem to have any pore filling ability at all. Salopian? Anyone?

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