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#202582 09/12/10 09:05 AM
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I shortened the pull yesterday on a .410 Stoeger Uplander, that I won at a S x S shoot recently, for my grandson. I then fitted a thin hard red buttpad. After determining how much to cut off I set some dividers to that measurement and scribed the line to follow around the butt. I sawed it off using a hacksaw and a fine tooth blade and it turned out very well, requiring very little "sanding flat". Only problem was that on the off side the wood splintered off the surface in tiny splinters from the blade pushing through on the cut. The wood in that gun is very soft, doesn't appear to be walnut. If I had wrapped the area to be cut with masking tape would it have prevented this splintering, or was I just using the wrong kind of saw?

Stan


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I always tape 'em and use a power mitre box with a really sharp carbide blade. It takes a little jigging and fixturing to get the stock in square, but, it makes for a clean cut.
You could try the same with the same gun, just taking a sliver off the cut stock to clean up the cut.

Best,
Ted

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I agree with Ted here. If you don't tape around the cut line you'll probably get splinters. I use an ancient Millers Falls hand miter box to do this with some adjustment and clamping. Taping is also necessary when fitting a pad or you'll ding the stock.
BTW: I use Gorilla tape. This is really tough stuff.
Jim

Last edited by italiansxs; 09/12/10 01:40 PM.

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I have both a miter (chop) and table saw. The table saw with a sled is much better than a chop saw. Tape is a very good idea.

bill

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I use a radial arm saw and try to go slow and steady. I shim up the butt the way I want it and clamp it to the table. Always wrap it with tape. I use Scotch electrical tape, wrapped very tightly. Mike Orlen's suggestion is to cut it about 1/16" or so, longer than you want it and then feather cut the last bit, to reduce the likelihood of splintering or chipping. Cleaning up the last bit on a belt sander accomplishes the same thing. Some of today's plastic finishes like to take out little chunks in spite of good preparation.

Last edited by Jim Legg; 09/12/10 11:29 AM.

> Jim Legg <

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I am about to embark on the same task for my Grand Son - Stan where did you get a hard thin red rubber pad ? I believe that one off of a old Ruger Rifle would be ideal, but I haven't located it yet.

To prevent the wood from splintering, how about making a very light 1/8" cut all of the way around the stock first ?


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You can usually prevent splintering, even with plastic finishes, by scoring your scribe line with a fresh razor blade or X-Acto or surgical knife. Just cut through the first layer of wood fibers and be careful not to veer off your scribe line. This works better than just tape.

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Replacement, that makes alot of sense, much better than making a light cut with a saw.


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I like replacements idea as well. I think I'll try this the next time.
Jim


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Hey I just did it on a power mitre saw, scribing it with an exacto-knive, no tearouts ! Worked great !


Mine's a tale that can't be told, my freedom I hold dear.


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