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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
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If it were mine I would clean the whole stock with nothing but raw linseed oil and 0000 steel wool. Then sit back and reevaluate what it looks like.
I understand that you will have to refinish the repaired part but possibly not the entire rifle?
Good news that the metal is not going to have to be redone, sometimes it looks a lot worse than it is.
PS: Is there any checkering on the underside of the bolt?
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 231
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2009
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Michael: Who is your source for Raw Linseed Oil?
The Sons of Alvin Linden
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Joined: Nov 2008
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 565 Likes: 12 |
I'm with Michael, no way I'd strip and refinish that stock. Just some linseed and very moderate use of steel wood. Look at how clean and crisp the forend checkering is, you will loose this if you refinish. Howards makes a product called restor-a-finish which I have used with very good results on some pretty bad stocks. You might be amazed what you can do with the finish that is on the rifle. John
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,703 Likes: 406
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,703 Likes: 406 |
I'm with Michael, no way I'd strip and refinish that stock. Just some linseed and very moderate use of steel wood. Look at how clean and crisp the forend checkering is, you will loose this if you refinish. Howards makes a product called restor-a-finish which I have used with very good results on some pretty bad stocks. You might be amazed what you can do with the finish that is on the rifle. John That is interesting stuff. I have seen it, or something very similar at a local Ace Hardware. But how durable is this for something like a hunting rifle? Brent
_________ BrentD, (Professor - just for Stan)
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Joined: Oct 2007
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Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,672 Likes: 4 |
Be aware tha linseed oil takes forever to dry in typical humid weather that we have in the US.you will need a drying cabinet and/or add some japan dryer to the linseed oil.I have a tackle box drying now that has been drying for the last 2 months and is still a bit tacky. I used linseed oil mixed with turpentine 50/50 over vinegar paint.I may have put on too thick a coat though.You can't beat the "look" for a vintage item and that is why I use it. Easy to repair too.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
I buy my raw linseed oil at the artist supply store.
We do not care if it dries or not, that is not what is needed now. The stock needs to be cleaned with the oil so it does not degrade the underlining finish. Just slop it on until it drips off then use the oil as it were soap and water, scrub the wood down with the 0000 steel wool. Then wipe off all the oil off with a dry clean rag.
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 565 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 565 Likes: 12 |
I'm with Michael, no way I'd strip and refinish that stock. Just some linseed and very moderate use of steel wood. Look at how clean and crisp the forend checkering is, you will loose this if you refinish. Howards makes a product called restor-a-finish which I have used with very good results on some pretty bad stocks. You might be amazed what you can do with the finish that is on the rifle. John That is interesting stuff. I have seen it, or something very similar at a local Ace Hardware. But how durable is this for something like a hunting rifle? Brent The original oil finish has protected the wood for the last 80 or so odd years, and will likely last another 100. I think what we are trying to do is preserve as much of that original finish as we possible can. A refinish will always be a refinish regardless of how well it is done. You have a lot of original finish left on that rifle, way to much in my opinion to strip and refinish it. I think if you oil it well, carefully remove the paint splotches, and give it a rub down every few months, you will be surprised at what you will end up with. John
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,672 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
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yes, there isn't anything better than linseed oil to use as a cleaner for pre=1940 finishes. I just cleaned a circa 1920 faux finished dresser that had been in a barn for the last 50 years and it came out really nice. I soaked in the linseed oil and then wet sanded with 400 grit paper and wiped off the excess and I am amazed how good it looks. I really didn't think it would work given the condition of the finish.I probably would have skipped the sandpaper if it had been a rare antique and just used burlap or some other course cloth that didn't leave lint behind.The smell stays for awhile and may bother some but I like it.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,754 Likes: 29 |
Brian LTC, USA Ret. NRA Patron Member AHFGCA Life Member USPSA Life Member
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,881 |
Brian, Thanks for the new pictures. My first impression was the rifle came out of the Wundhammer shop. I've only seen that buttplate on a Wundhammer, the schnabel and layout is a lot like his work. But it all ends there, the checkering and checkering layout is not his work and the stock is way to thick. You can see this where the Lyman 48 had to be inletted into the stock. The inletting is not his and there is way to much wood removed for whatever reason. Did the stock break because if the missing wood, Or was the wood removed in an attempt to repair the stock. Ross King worked in his shop for sometime before he went on his own but the work does not look like his. I'll check my files because I remember that someone else worked for him for a while. Regardless of who did the work it's well worth some effort to restore it. Good luck....MP Wundhammer's Work,
MP Sadly Deceased as of 2/17/2014
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