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Joined: Mar 2006
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Thank you, Brent. Skim through 'The Alkanet Story' for the pertinent posts. Some useful info there concerning color and there is a formula for the oil finish I used there and in this thread. There was another thread on finishing and alkanet running concurrently with the one above and it had good info as well. Can't get the search to work for me this morning. If you like, give me a call 512 913 5233, might save some time.

Hansli #24155 02/05/07 04:16 PM
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Gentlemen,
The Liberon Finishing oil I keep mentioning is exactly that description in the Liberon catalogue.Available in 250,500ml 1L,5L, and 25Litre cans, contains pure Tung oil.
Anyone seeking my opinion (not necessarily correct !!!)I am very happy to help.Please ask via these refinishing threads or PM me.
Hansli, that one photo of your stock is practically identical to a AYA 20 bore I have refinished.
Nice colour isn't it?

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Yes sir. There are 2 more in the alkanet thread. One is in resplendent Texas sunshine revealing more color.

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Originally Posted By: salopian
Gentlemen,
The Liberon Finishing oil I keep mentioning is exactly that description in the Liberon catalogue.

Anyone seeking my opinion (not necessarily correct !!!)I am very happy to help.Please ask via these refinishing threads or PM me.


Salopian,

Appreciate any info you care to share. Am doing lots of reading before jumping into this (these) project(s).

What is it you prefer about Liberon over Waterlox products? Is the finish waterproof? Is it a Satin finish or more of a shiny finish? Any pictures we can look at?

Hate to be a pest but to do a nice job seems to be pretty labor and time intensive. Hope to do it right the first time. Mike's guns are beautiful, only hope mine come out half as nice.

Thank you.

tim


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Liberon is heat and water resistant.
I have not done back to back test comparing Waterlox, but Taunton's magazine Fine Woodworking did do an extensive product comparability test August 2005 edition.Also refer to Steven Russell's Oil Slick articles http://www.arbortech.com

Yes it is labour intensive, but you only get out what you put in.Very important to realise that if your wood as little or no figure you are possibly wasting time trying to enhance it with a fine finish.

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Dig, Tim,
Forgive my intrusion into your dialogue, but in Dig's earlier post Watco was brought up in comparison to Liberon and now it seems Waterlox is being compared. I poked around the net a bit and it appears they are not the same product nor from the same maker. Can you clarify this discussion for me?

Thanks

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Originally Posted By: Chuck H
Dig, Tim,
Forgive my intrusion into your dialogue, but in Dig's earlier post Watco was brought up in comparison to Liberon and now it seems Waterlox is being compared. I poked around the net a bit and it appears they are not the same product nor from the same maker. Can you clarify this discussion for me?

Thanks


Thanks Chuck. I think I am the one who is confused. I did not realize these were two different products - Watco and Waterlox. Appreciate you pointing this out.

tim

Last edited by Tim Wolf; 02/06/07 07:04 PM.

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Chuck may be confused also? Because I am not Dig.Digory is the wealthy one.I am just a poor old craftsman.Not many of us left in the UK.

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I just put a coat of Tung Oil on my current stock project last night. This is the second layer. (One layer the night before). I just want to reinforce that it did take about 2 drops for each side of the stock. I never understood how so little could go such a long way, but following the sage advice of others here, I'm learning. Part of the key this time seems to be that the grain was really filled on this stock, whereas in the past I may have thought it was filled well but the amount of Tung Oil needed proved otherwise. Now a drop and I cover half of one side of the stock, and again this was only the second layer... I used multiple coats of Behlen Blood Red prior to the Tung Oil and had filled the grain with stain and wet sanding prior to the Behlen Blood Red applications, which I am not ashamed to say totalled about 12 or 13 (I did lose count)... I am assuming the next layers will require just ONE drop per side of the stock.

This stock refinish project on a rolling block is taking shape to be looking like it came out of 1878 era... It's a stock look I like alot.


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salopian,
I'm sorry for the mistaken identification. I had somehow come to that conclusion from other threads.

Could you clarify the question of whether Watco or Waterlox was the subject of your experience and references?

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