S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
1 members (Jtplumb),
558
guests, and
3
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,542
Posts546,055
Members14,420
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Hi guys, I've seen both. 1) CCH with the rest of the actiong and 2) taken out CCH then put back in. As the Grants have removable pins I'm tampted to take the pun out. Put the plug (with engraving) back on and then Anneal and CCH without the pin itself in...then put back in afterwards. I presume it would have been CCH the first time around with the rest of it.... Open to opinions....informed of course.. T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
Since the pin has a shoulder on it, I would put both the pin and the cap in place during CCH (anneal everything)....for the original look and set........
Cheers,
Doug
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Thanks Doug. That's what I thought.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 614
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 614 |
I agree with Doug that you should have them both in place when you anneal and re-case the action. The outer pin you can always anneal and nitre if you dont like the cased look. The actual hinge pin is somewhat of a debate. I like to think most of them are made of the same steel as the action and will case harden just fine. This gives you a good treated wear surface for the barrel hook to ride on, as long as its not overly hardened compared to the barrel hook. I know some people dont case them or anneal them afterwards to a similar hardness as the barrel hook. Might not be a bad idea for you should check the hardness before annealing and see if its already soft like the barrel or if its got a file hard skin to it.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Yeah I think you are right most of them were annealed and hardened. It's too late...the whole lot is in the kiln annealing. Thanks to those who replied. T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,832 Likes: 13
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,832 Likes: 13 |
I thought cross pins are usually pulled during CC hardening, blued, and then fitted back in place after the process is completed?
From what I understood, if a cross pin is removable, you want it to take the wear (instead of the lump). CC hardening it would not allow this to happen.
OWD
Last edited by obsessed-with-doubles; 08/29/11 04:12 PM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,284 |
Hi, after more research elsewhere, and I'll confirm with my friends at Price street tomorrow they were left in. The barrel hook is supposed to wear hence the need for tig welding the hook when they go loose. I've never seen one blued! Sorry obsessed but I think you might be wrong on this one having researched a bit further. Cheers T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,292 |
From what I understood, if a cross pin is removable, you want it to take the wear (instead of the lump). CC hardening it would not allow this to happen.
OWD NO......on quality guns the hinge pins are always hardened so they are slick and cannot gall.....the barrel hook turns, not the hinge pin.......the barrel hook is the wear item and takes what minimal wear there is, provided it is fitted properly.......and should adjustment be required, the barrel hook is the part made of a softer steel and is usually welded and filed to fit...........which is the proper way....!..... By increasing the size of a replacement hinge pin to compensate for wear and slop, you are just slowly ruining the barrel hook and monobloc......which needs to be repaired....... People put too much grease on the hinge pin, which ends up collecting dirt and powder and makes a real nice grinding wheel.........then they wonder why the hooks wear out............duh.......... BTW..... it is called a barrel hook, not a lump.......
Doug
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1 |
Removeable hige pin made from high carbon steel and aditional CCH could destroy it.
Geno.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,832 Likes: 13
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,832 Likes: 13 |
Ha - OK. Checked on this. I was somewhat wrong...
What I was told is pretty complicated and going into it all will take too much time and brainpower right now.
But a quick summary:
Short cross pins (Boss, Grants, H&H-style sidelocks, etc) are typically CChardened in place. This is done to protect the action. But these pins should be annealed or replaced afterwards. Geno is right - unlike the action, these pins are made from high carbon steel and CCH can make them exceptionally brittle. If they are not addressed, they can shatter when the gun is fired.
Purdeys have long pins. These pins are not left in place or CChardened. They are blued, just like the pins on most hammerguns.
And the pin is supposed to take the wear. The HOOK cannot be replaced, so you want to do minimal work on it when you put the gun back on the face.
I think that's it.
OWD
BTW: welding up the hook is not the proper way to put a quality double back on the face. Replacing the hinge pin is. Welding is how you deal with fixed cross pins, or a shortcut.
Last edited by obsessed-with-doubles; 08/29/11 06:17 PM.
|
|
|
|
|