doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Removing lead

Is a good thorough brushing with copper or brass barrel brush lubed with light oil followed up with a patch adequate to remove lead from shotgun and rifle barrels? I remember as a kid having to use a wire brush on my .22 occasionally if I wanted it to continue shooting accurately.
Steve

I found it a bit easier and less messy to lightly spray tubes with CLP or your favorite brand. let sit for a few minutes to loosen the crud. Then take a crumpled paper towel (1/2 sheet for smaller gauges) so that it can barely be pushed down the tube with a wooden rod with some difficulty. It will probably "squeak" if snug enough. I usually put the rod on the ground and push the barrel down on it breech end first. Do not push all the way thru but leave as a plug at the front end of tubes. spray the tubes another time with paper plugs inside and let sit a while pointed down. Push or pull the paper plugs out and push more tightly fitted dry paper towels thru until they come out clean. check tubes.

If there is some lead or plastic left around chambers, forcing cones or chokes then I wrap a bronze brush (preferably the english/csmc style) with a soaked cloth patch and scrub the tubes with them followed by bunched paper towels to clean the loosened crud.

That is a cheap/quick/easy way to clean most anything and leaves the brush both clean and without wear and little effort.


If I am in the field or unable to do a full cleaning I do the first wet/push/plug to let the barrels soak until I have a chance to clean more thoroughly.

FWIW

It's off topic here, but when you clean a .22, you ruin accuracy for at least 200 rounds.

I never clean my .22s, haven't done so in probably 30 years. But to remove lead from shotguns (which I don't see happening with plastic shot cups) it should be good to go.

Rock:
For the last 50 years or so, I've pushed the heavy stuff out with two patches soaked in Hoppe's No. 9, then scrubbed with a bronze brush dipped in Hoppe's No. 9. Two patches to clean the crud and you're done. Lead is gone. Plastic wad fouling? Use a specialised solvent for that. "Oils" don't cut the fouling... or loosen lead.

Genelang,
I experienced just the opposite with my .22. After I'd shot it for awhile it started shooting poorly. I'd shot on my high school rifle team and was a good shot, so I was perplexed by how bad my aim had gotten. Finally, I cleaned the bore with a brass bore brush and damned if it didn't start shooting good again. What brought up this question is cleaning the shallow rifling in my 1863 Springfield musket. I'd contacted Track of the Wolf about purchasing minnie balls and they suggested using some special solvent called JB Bore Paste Cleaner they sold for lead removal. I've been struggling financially lately so I don't want to waste money purchasing things that I don't need just because they sound good.
Steve

Steve if the barrel is rough and really leaded up it may take a whole lot of scrubbing to get the lead out.

J&B Bore Paste is good stuff, but on less than a match rifle I would have no qualms about using Tooth Paste to get her clean. Just make sure you clean it up good afterwards with boiling water.

John Wayne Toilet Paper wrapped tightly over a Jag will make a fine "Lap" for it.

Plastic residue from the wad cup is the biggest "fouler of them all" You are never really clean as far as your barrel goes until you get rid of all traces of plastic residue, which is hard to get out

Clif,
I hear you about the plastic. I had an old Crescent hammer gun with OK bores but nothing to brag about. After shooting a whole bunch of Winchester AA's through it, I went to a doublegun meet and shot a round of trap using black powder. Black powder residue and shredded plasic crud hanging off the inside of the barrels, what an unholy mess! I finally chucked my cleaning rod and bore brush onto my power drill to get it all out. I probably spent an hour getting those barrels clean.
Steve

First, plastic wads and black powder is a bad combination. It should be avoided, as Rockdoc indicates.

Second, I have found that a "bob" of 0000 steel wool on a "fuzzed up" 3/8" wood dowel that is chucked int a power drill works very well. Just get the bore wet with your favorite solvent and rock and roll. The "bob" should be just big enough to slow the drill down, slightly. "Run her" until the barrel gets warm to the touch.

One more thing; run the "bob" counterclockwise if the barrel is choked tubed. This helps to prevent "unscrewing".