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No, it is not. The two of last two barrels that I did had some afterrusting after the boil and had to reoil them for days to stop it. With The last barrel that I did, i used the baking soda wash and had no afterrusting.

I thought everyone blacking/browning/blueing barrels understood that the baking soda final wash is "as important" and required as any other step in the blueing/blacking process.........done without fail if you want a quality job......useful especially in the weep holes and other hidden places....

I would have guessed that everyone understood it's importance until I saw the two posts above.......

It's neutralizing effect is more important than "whatever" oil you use for the final wipe down, that's a fact......

Thanks to all for the information. PA�s barrels look better what I have produced so far. They look better than any barrels I own!

Until I went looking on the internet I simply followed the instructions that come with the Pilkington Classic American Rust Blue. I don�t think there is any mention of a soda wash.

I will take some photos this weekend so you guys can assess my current attempt. Hopefully you will not mind looking at an 1897 Winchester. I was trying for more of a matt finish and only polished to 320.

I thought the rusting agent was almost certainly water soluble (most acids are). Next time�

Thanks again.

I am in the middle of bluing some barrels now. I`ll go with ATF
BUT I have a question, when you blokes are boiling your barrels, do you have anything in the water>> IE caustic soda or anysuch

Cheers

6878mm:

I prep barrels to 600 W-D grit as a final finish, then clean-prep with acetone.....

I use only pure rain water for boiling in the tank, with nothing added.......

Caustic blacking solution of your choice --(I pour some of the solution into a wide mouth glass jar for ease of application to the patch)-- apply two coats each pass, drying in between each coat, onto the barrels while they are warm applying with a new clean soft cotton patch each pass, boil each pass for 5-8 minutes, card with a new clean 0000 steel wool after drying each pass.....Usually 8-9 passes for a nice black finish, less passes for blue or matt finish....

Like any refinishing the preparation and attention to detail will determine the final finish quality.....

I drain and clean the tank after each set of barrels.....

I hope this helps....

Cheers,

I use pure water, either rain water or deionized

In my experience, some steels don't want to change from brown rust to black rust (Fe2O3 to Fe3O4) when boiled in pure water. Apparently there isn't enough hydronium ions present in the bath. In such cases, I add a few (2 or 3) drops of acid, such as hydrochloric, sulfuric or nitric, to the bath. It works for me.

The results. Is this what the blue should look like?

Sorry not a double. Even more sorry to make you look at the recoil pad.

Yup.....looks super Ryan, you did a great job....!.........Nice old Win 1897....

Whose rusting solution did you end up using after all....?.....I use a Dremel with a tiny 3M wheel to polish the bolt in most cases while it's apart, works good for any steel bright work that you wish to clean/polish up......

Here's a Remington .22 made in December 1911...I did it the same way......

Best,

Nice .22 PA24.

I used Pilkington classic American rust blue. 7 or 8 times. I flame blued the screws. I should polish the bolt and carrier. This was more work than a double barrel.

I wish I had a before picture. The action would not cycle due to the innards being frozen by rust. I must have filed off a few ounces of steel in removing the worst of the rust pits. It is still a heavy beast. The bore was pretty good compared to the outside. It came with a cutts compensator which I may reinstall, or maybe I will jug choke it.

I think the design is a little dangerous by modern standards�