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We have several ways here in the shop to tighten actions. In the past I put up a pictorial of replacing the hinge pin. In a search for additional methods of invisible repair we have developed the following process which is applicable to most barrel types, though not chopper lump barrels. We begin the process by carefully measuring both the gun and the barrels using both micrometers and an optical comparator. Once we know the location of the hook and how much material needs to be added we have the hook welded shut. While I can TIG weld moderately well, I contract this part out to an expert welder. We then cut the hook in it's new location and hand fit the final couple of thousandths of an inch using the traditional smoke and fit method. The result is a completely invisible repair and one that gives excellent contact between the hook and the hinge pin.



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Steve, I'm a little confused. How does your method differ from the common repair of tig welding the hook and refitting it?


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we use a cnc machine to re-cut the hook and match the proper radius. I do not believe anyone else is doing this. Most are using just smoke and fit to get the hook fit.
Steve


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I've been doing this for several years now on a regular vertical mill equipped with a DRO, and I posted a pic collage on the Fox site as well as here a while back. It is an excellent method. Your holding fixture is similar to mine although I can use a shorter end mill, and mine doesn't use a jack screw that can mar the side of the hook. My fixture sits on parallels in the machine vice same as yours but is longer to help support the weight of the barrels. More info for readers... I don't do it commercially. Frank Silvers


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Mr. Silvers;

I just searched the Fox Collectors website for you collage of photos on the method you developed to weld a hook, but did not find it. Would you be so kind as to post a link to it?

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the jack screw does not mar the surface when a thin strip of copper is placed between it and the lug. I have done it on a regular mill as well, but you can not match the radius of the hook with a standard mill unless the pin just so happens to be the same size as one of your endmills.


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Steve, Dennis Potter teaches a similar method in his NRA summer class at Trinidad State JR collage. Dennis uses a mill with a boring bar to get close to the correct diameter. Then smoke fit the final fitting.

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Does anyone refit the circle joint?

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It's easy to match the radius of the hinge pin when recutting the welded hook, through use of an end mill ground to size. I've done quite a few Foxes using this technique along with Ithacas and even a SAC which was challenging because it had a tapered hinge pin.

Bushveld, most of my 'smithing posts on the Fox site are on the private Members Forum and they won't come up using the search function for anyone who isn't an annual/life member and has access enabled. The latest post I did on this is dated 2/7/12 and it's there in the Fox Members Forum along with descriptive text but the pics are missing due a problem with Photobucket.

Here are two salvaged pics showing a Fox hook after welding, and after the hook was recut to within 1-2 thou overlength, and before the spot & fit to the frame. Weld was done by a welding tech and is 100% with no dark spots/voids showing after the machining. Also, note how little "heat" propagated onto the hook. Frank Silvers





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more than one way to skin a cat.....


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