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Joined: Sep 2005
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Going by the book spar varnish never dries. After all it is made for outdoor applications on boats. Maybe reduce the spar varnish or substuitute something else.

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This thread as come a long way from the original red oil enquiry.
To keep it on track we really do have to differentiate between oil finishes and lacquer and polyurethane.Spar varnish does dry but is formulated to be flexible to cope with the rigours of a seafaring way of life.The usage your gun is going to be used for can determine the final finish.Is it going to be used for wildfowling, sporting clays or for display in the gun cabinet?

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Indeed. And I think it is fair to say most people have a number of guns so all of us have more than one stock finish direction. Yet the range of things i learn on this thread can be applied to each of my gun finish options.

Personally, most of my guns are field guns and I have no cabinet queens. But I have beaters and I have NICE field guns.

I want finishes that are durable and can be repaired easily. That said, and since I started this alkanet thingy, I do have preferance for red stocks, deep rich red stocks. The older doubles, like merkels, always catch my eye from across the room or at 20 paces in the field and then up close I just like their look and feel even more.

I've been trying to duplicate that "look" with alkanet or at least come up with stock finishes and methods that gets what I call---"a rich oil look with a deep and protective shine"... and yes RED RED is good.


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Yogi,'That look' normally comes from an expensive piece of English,French,Claro Walnut sanded and boned to perfection by a Master craftsman and then treated to numerous = many coats of well rubbed in linseed oil over many weeks / months whilst the rest of the gun is being made / tested / blued /finished.
Remember America gave us fast food and Tru-oil.
Great Britain gave you Great Guns, Tradition, and hopefully patience.

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Don't forget jeeps and freighters launched in 30 days. Fast is right.

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Yea, I here you... Time honored methods. They have a look that cannot be replaced with fast-track methods.

BTW: The Blood Red, Behlen stain just arrived by mail. Oh boy I get to play tonite.


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Boyohboyohboy, can't wait to hear your results YOGI. I'll shortly be in the market for some of your SuperRed stain/finish on another project. Ken



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I'm jumping in here late, but I have a gun that a really masterful craftsman from NY did the restoration on. He restocked it as well as any wellknown stockmaker's work and the finish is superb. It has a nice sheen that is a bit on the glossy side but 'in-the-wood'.

The process he outlined to me was that he took Pro-Custom Oil in the aerosol can and sprayed it into a cup and thinned 50% with mineral spirits. Then sanded in half a dozen coats and the usual sanding to smooth. Then sprayed a couple coats and sanded/polished to desired sheen. The PCO dries very quickly and is durable and waterproof.

I almost forgot, since PCO is compatible with mineral spirits, one could take the solution of alkenet root/mineral spirits and blend with the PCO.

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Chuck, would this old man be Brian Burgen ? If so, he is closing down the biz. ken



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Hansli,thanks for your response to my tongue in cheek 'pop' you know as well as I that the UK has to be eternally grateful to Alan Ladd & John Wayne.
Chuck H, yes of course modern techniques are very efficient and may well exceed older traditional methods, using less time and making less mess.The difficult decision will always be when to use modern or traditional techniques.
I think traditional 'English' oil rubbed will always be preferred on a quality exhibition or collectors piece, IMHO.

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